After another gigantic offering for breakfast, I met up with a tour. We visited several spots for photos and discussed the ancient landscape which has been home to many civilizations. Most important from my perspective, the early Christian hermits sought this area to escape persecution from the Roman empire. The cliff dwellings provided an excellent place to hide and also to view any possible enemies coming. We visited the Goreme open air museum which has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site. The museum is a series of cliff dwellings which in fact were early churches dating from the 3rd century. They represent the earliest dwellings designed for monastic life and devotion to Christianity. The Desert Fathers, some of my most cherished early writers, lived here and founded monasteries and convents in the cliffs.
St. Basil was the first, but many more followed. As a result, there are literally thousands of churches hidden in the rocks in these valleys and one could hike them for weeks and never find them all.
We toured the museum which was very busy. Tour groups are only allowed 3 minutes in each building! Our guide talked fast, but was very informative as we looked at early cave frescoes on the walls. Many had been defaced by Islamic worshippers after the Ottoman empire took over, but in most cases, this meant only removing the face from the images as that is not allowed in Islamic worship. In some cases, other types of damage had taken place until governments from around the world provided money to help create and protect these churches. Still, there are literally (as I said) thousands in the valleys that are still unprotected. I was in awe of the spaces and moved by the spirit that would bring people to this harsh land to spend a life of asceticism and contemplation. It is simply amazing.
After this, we were take to a "cave" for a lovely Turkish lunch of traditional stew, rice, baklava, soup and beans. A wonderful Kanan player provided the music and I enjoyed talking with the group members who were from all over. I was the only American in this group, but just about everyone spoke English. After lunch, we were taken to a "carpet demonstration" and you know what that meant...a sales pitch.
I am always amazed that everyone assumes that because I am an American, I am rich. The world targets us and I believe we certainly do our part to support the local economy. The more I travel, the more jaded I get. I do know that we as a society make more than most of these folks in various countries, but I have a hard time with the "speil"" that is directed most often at me. Such was the case with the carpet joint. I have become a but cynical....and also learned a great deal about carpet. When a question was asked, I could answer it. And I did. I think I was messing up the guys presentation and I also think I knew a few things he did not. Clearly though, I was the target. They took me to a room and showed me a lovely rug for $23,000USD. Not kidding and it ain't happening....They were disappointed, but after the way things are going on Wall Street, there are going to be a LOT of disappointed vendors in Turkey. Talk about a "new world order".
We then roamed the valleys for a bit, but the weather turned cold and rainy making photography difficult. It was still beautiful, but the photo opportunities diminished with the sun. Too bad as the valley with the "mushroom" or "fairy chimneys" is quite amazing. Formed from volcanic basalt cooling over limestone, the chimneys have a top which is different from the stone carved out beneath. The effect is striking and fanciful. We stopped at several other geologically interesting sites on the way, but again the weather slowed things a bit.
We ended the day at a pottery center where we learned about the ancient red clay techniques associated with the region. In fact, the production of pottery is the number one industry in the region with some spectacular results. It was very interesting and I enjoyed the demonstrations. In fact, a man is expected to be able to throw pots in this area, or is not considered a good husband, because if he cannot, he cannot provide for his family. Alas, I would be a bachelor...Finally, we were take to a show room and enticed to buy. I cannot imagine traveling with one of these pieces. However, they were incredible and I really do appreciate the work. It's incredible. I found the "evil eye" design especially interesting. Turquoise and dark blue mixed. Beautiful.
After bidding good bye to the tour, I spent the evening walking around Uchisar. The evenings are quiet with only the sounds of the dogs barking and running in packs (Turkish dogs seem to be descended from one breed and they are not exported), and perched from the tops of walls, families cooking and living a much more rural "Anatolian" lifestyle. Smoke comes from the chimeys, the evening smells of cooking food and the call of the Imam signals time for evening prayer as the stars come out. Very beautiful. I returned to the hotel for a quite Turkish dinner and a glass of Raki, a strong Turkish liquor flavored like Anise. One glass was enough. I shall miss Turkey and would love to return some day. Everyone ought to see this place. It's truly amazing. I am leaving for India tomorrow in what promises to be a LONG travel day. As I go to bed, the wind comes up. A strong storm is moving in tonight. I fall asleep in a candle lit room....
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