Cappodocia

I arrived in Cappodocia on Monday.  I took a Turkish Air flight that was more comfortable than any domestic flight I have had in the US in recent years.  First rate.    After flying into Kayseri, I was taken by van to my hotel in Uchisar.  I was expecting to stay in cave as that is one the highlights of visiting this region of Turkey.  People as far back as the Hittite culture (2,000-3,000 BCE) have been living in these valleys and utilizing the natural caves formed in the fairy- like rock steeples here.  The hotel I am in (the hotel Karvelik) is not a cave hotel, but it is a fabulous place to stay. I was treated like a veritable sultan from the moment I arrived.   While my room was being prepared, the hostess Gulan invited me to have breakfast.  I was reminded of the John Pinette comedy bit where he goes to Italy to eat and tells them he is starving and they proceed to nearly kill him by bringing him soooo much good food.  So it was here.  I had to laugh as they brought out about ten plates of stuff including four types of olives with fresh walnuts and herbs from the garden, four types of Turkish cheese, bread, toast, pastries, four types of freshly made jam from the garden (I am not making this up) two types of sausage, Nutella and peanut butter, cucumbers, tomatoes, an omelette,  herb flavored water and fresh coffee!  I actually got out my camera and took a picture.

I was then taken up to the blue room and again my breath was taken away by the beautiful space I would be staying in.  I felt like a sultan in this huge space with a reading area (covered with pillows), wine with my name on the bottle from the local winery, grapes and toasted sesame seeds, a large feather bed, a spa tub, veranda....you get the idea.   I was tired from a relatively sleepless night before and fell into bed for a short nap.  

When I woke up, I decided to go out and  walk around.  Uchisar is a beautiful village in the heart of Turkey where life is slow and rural feeling.  The town is situated at the top of a hill which made it an important place strategically.   At the crown of the hill is the Citadel, a rock like formation willed with caves that is the highest point around for miles.  I hiked around the town and then started climbing.  As I was nearing the top area, a man stepped out of a cave.  He was small, dressed in a dirty sport coat and he definitely had a drink or two.  He spoke only French and Turkish.  I had learned that the French were really the first to discover this place as a destination in the 1950's.  Many businesses here have French names, "Bon Marche" etc.    I was surprised to learn I could communicate with him in French enough to sort things out and we began to climb in and out of caves.  Apo had been raised in the region and moved through the small spaces very comfortably.  I realized as he took me around that he was giving me an tour.  I knew what was coming later, but it really was a unique view from the citadel and I have to say that I got some of my best photos of the day from the places he brought me.  At the end, he asked to be paid and I was happy to oblige him.  He was cheaper than a tour and cheaper than admission to most things here.  I'm sure he needed the money and it was a unique experience.

I then "summited" the citadel...along with many others and enjoyed the view of the surrounding valleys.  Many of us (from all over the world) stayed at the top for sunset.  You could see for miles as the moon came up.  The highest peak in Turkey, mount Argeus (at some 3,970 meters and perpetually snow capped) was barely visible on the horizon.  As the sun set, the Imam began singing his call to worship at the mosque.  I descended the citadel and bought a bag of what I am calling "Turkish Trail Mix" although the sign advertised "Turkish Viagra". I picked the contents of the bag which included sesame covered nuts, almonds and dried fruits of all sorts including apples, apricots and dates.  It was delicious.     After having a dinner of meat and a wonderful Turkish grilled sort of flat bread filled with cheese, onions and herbs called gozleme, I wandered the dimly lit streets back to the hotel in the chilly night air, filled with the smell of wood smoke from the cooking fires in the local homes.