Wat Arun.

Today was a day to visit another of the many wats (temples) in Bangkok.  With over 400 of them in Bangkok alone, it is difficult to choose.  However, Wat Arun (the temple of the Dawn) beckons so beautifully from across the river Mae Nam Chao Phraya that the decision is an easy one.  I made my way down towards the river and waited as I looked at the chocolate brown water.  There are many ways to get across; by conventional ferry, by covered boat, or by high speed daredevil streamlined boats that look like giant canoes with car engines strapped to the back.  These dragsters tear up and down the river at fantastic speeds, defying anyone to catch them as they race back and forth.  I have been told they are fun, but that you should also know how to swim if you ride in one.

The ferry slowly chugged its way across and as it did, the beautiful temple came fully into view.  Wat Arun is named after the Indian god of the dawn (Aruna).  It was on this spot that King Taksin came upon a shrine that local people used.  He took this as a sign that this is where his palace should be built, before it was eventually moved across the river.  The dominant feature is the central tower which is roughly 82 meters tall.  Built in the first half of the 19th century, it is covered with countless small ceramic tiles made of glazed porcelain.  There are also murals depicting the life of Prince Siddhartha (the Buddha) and the ashes of Rama II are also interred there.  The climb to the tower is not so much and endurance act as one of courage for it feels as if it is vertical.  Fifteen steps take you up to the first generously wide platform.  There are 22 STEEP steps up to the next level which affords a nice glimpse of the city and some slightly cooler temperatures!  The next staircase is the scary one!  19 more nearly vertical steps have you hanging on for dear life as you climb to the next (and final overlook) that offers a stunning  view of the city in all directions, but especially overlooking the river.  The breeze from this vantage point is glorious.  However, going down is even more scary that climbing up, many folks choosing to descend backwards.  

The wat also features huge beautiful temple bells and manicured grounds, glorious statues and is certainly one of the most visible and important in a city filled with important sites.  There are even cut-out Thai dancer and Thai god figures that you can put your head in and get your picture taken, however, if you do, someone jumps out and asks you for 40 baht!  Ha!  

After the ride back, I came across a place offering pad thai for 30 baht (about 90 cents).  My wife, Leslie, said I should try it over here and see if it is anything like the pad thai we both love at home.  I am happy to that it is very much like the pad thai we have at home only better, for two reasons: 1.  It is only 90 cents and 2. It is in Thailand!  Truth is, I sat in the open air and a nice lady approached me and said to call her "Shelly", many Thai's do this rather than have you wrestle with their Thai name.  She brought me pad thai, a cold bottle of water, a coke and a fresh spring roll cut into pieces and placed in a plastic bag.  Some dipping sauce was also poured into the bag and a bamboo skewer was speared through the spring roll.  It was glorious to sit in the market and watch the activity while enjoying a delicious version of my favorite Thai dish.  Shelly contends it is the tamarind that is the essential ingredient, along with pickled radish.  She wrote out the basics for me in my notebook and I will do my best to re-create them at home.  A man approached us and sat down.  He introduced himself as Mr. Tong.  He looked at me and said, "you need a suit".

Now, many people come to Bangkok to buy a suit.  My friend Randy had suggested it also when I was in India.  Basically, you can go to a tailor here, pick out the style you want and the cloth you want (generally silk or a silk/wool blend).  They will measure you (even come to your hotel) and have it ready within hours.  They will even deliver it pressed and ready to go to your hotel room, all for $150-200 depending upon what you want.  Some offer deals where they will make an extra pair of slacks and or 2-3 shirts for another $50 bucks.  Incredible.  As I mentioned, I did not come here to buy a suit, but Mr. Tong insisted I look.  He said he would get me a cab which would take me to a place (Manhattan Fashions) and that I was to go DOWNSTAIRS "don't you know?" he would say, "where the Thai men go."  In turn, the cab would wait and then take me for a Thai massage (which would last two hours) and then take me to my hotel.  He negotiated the cab fee...50 baht (like $1.20...)  I did not want a suit, but reluctantly I got in the cab, not wanting to offend him.

I told the cab driver, "I do not want a suit." "OK" he said, "but you look anyway for Mr. Tong not get mad at me".  "You look and I wait, then we go".  I could handle that, and I  have to admit that the place was great.  If  I was looking for a suit, this would be the place to do it.  The linings were as beautiful and the exteriors and they were a seriously good deal. I looked at the merchandise and the quality of the garments. I sat and talked with the salesman (who did not pressure me in any way) and I thanked him, but said I was not interested.  With a friendly shrug he thanked me for coming by. I had fulfilled my agreement with Mr. Tong.  I wanted a legendary Thai massage.   The cab driver took me to a spa he guaranteed would give me a great Thai massage; a legitimate massage mind you.  In Bangkok, there are many types of things labeled "massage", so I was not sure.

The spa turned out to be a beautiful place where a hostess came out and showed me the options.  I took the most conventional package which was a traditional Thai massage with essential oils and herbs, lasting two hours.  The lady who was to give the massage greeted me and we took the elevator up to the spa area.  I was escorted to a lovely private room where I was instructed to take a shower, cover myself in a garment provided and then knock on the door to tell her I was ready.  After doing so, she came in and I was instructed to lie down on the table.  I was then covered with towels.  Now the nice lady giving the massage was about my age, and short, maybe 5'1" or 5'2", but she was about to give me the most rigorous and I will say best massage of my life.  Thai massage is intense.  It involves manipulating joints and stretching the victim a variety of ways that my body does not normally want to bend.  She began by getting on the table and climbing onto me.  Kneeling on the backs of my thighs, she began to pop joints and pull me in every direction!  For over an hour she did this, first without oil and then with oil scented with herbs.  She followed this with a treatment of steaming herbs in a bag heated to about 1,000 degrees Kelvin which she "plopped" all over my body.  I kid about the heat, but it was wonderful.  She also concentrated on my scalp and head and there was a definite feeling of positive energy about the whole process, accompanied by soft, Thai classical music.  After two hours, I was a noodle.  A very happy noodle.  She brought me tea and I thanked her for the most wonderful massage experience I have ever had.  The cab driver met me and took me back to my hotel.  I needed a nap and I got one, but I still wanted dinner!  Getting another cab, I made my way to China town.

My friend and travel agent Nancy Wilhite calls Bangkok the "Blade runner City" and I can see why.   China town is a perfect illustration with its neon signs, all night activity, food stalls, exotic smells and other worldly aura. It feels like a separate city within Bangkok.  As I walked down the street there were huge shark fins hanging from hooks, barbecued meats, fresh seafood in tanks and bird nests for soup.  I picked a spot (there were dozens to choose from) and ordered the shark fin soup.  Illegal in the US, this delicate soup was flavored with crab meat and mushrooms and a lovely fish undertone.  At 300 baht (about $10) a bowl, it was not cheap, but it was delicious and nothing compared to the bird nest soup which started at a staggering 8,000 baht per bowl.   Packages of nests were available for sale too. I had heard about these before, little, delicate nests built from regurgitated bird fluids taken from caves.  Rated by their purity, the most expensive bundles of nests were a mind boggling 32,000 baht  (over $1,000 USD) and considered a delicacy for only the most wealthy.   I was happy with my shark fin soup and the lovely dinner that followed thank you very much.  I went back to my room, tired, full and very happy.

What a place!

I have decided that I love Thailand. I sort of thought I would given my love for Thai food, but I love everything else I have encountered about it too.  People are friendly, the weather is hot and humid, but there is also a breeze to mitigate it.  Air conditioning is everywhere.  The streets and sidewalks are spotless.  People have really tried to be helpful.  The architecture is AMAZING. I have visited three different wats and the temples inside them and they are all very beautiful.  Thai's tell me the economy is sagging a bit here, but you would not know it.   The infrastructure here is impressive.  There is no begging, the citizens seem happy and well cared for by their government and their king is loved universally.  He still has real power here and he appears to be doing a superb job.  Proof a monarchy can work.   

On Sunday I decided the look for a spirit house which is an essential item in countries where animism is practiced.  Found in many homes, a spirit house is a place for spirits to live inside a home, especially if you have displaced any.  There are a number of nice young folks (20-25) who work at the hotel and they told me to go out to the weekend market which takes place every Saturday and Sunday.  They were certain I could find what I wanted out there.  Were they ever right!  The market was a vast complex of shops and stalls that literally covered square acres, most of it indoor, but parts also open to the air.  The goods are arranged in areas.  You can find furniture in one area, housewares in another, clothing in still another, etc. and there is a food court, but food is prepared fresh on the spot.  You can have an excellent lunch of Pad Thai for under one dollar (excluding beverages).  Throw in fresh spring rolls for 40 cents and you are good to go.  There are so many interesting foods to try, it is hard to resist (more on that later...)

As it began to get dark, a man walked through the market with two elephants!  One was a baby (like Sam in Portland), maybe 400 pounds.  The other was MUCH larger, maybe closer to 4,000.  They were gentle and people wanted to touch them.  They made various grunting sounds as they came near.  Thailand has an intimate relationship with elephants and they are very much part of the history of this nation, both as work animals and in military campaigns in previous centuries.  My guess is that it was probably not "OK" for these elephants to be there, but the police did not seem to mind and they were very gentle.  For 20 baht you could get a bag of some type of food (it looked a bit like bananas) and the elephants would walk up to you and take the food.  OK-I had to try it.  They came over and were very enthusiastic!  Both trunks were coming at me and I was giving them food as fast as they could take it and put it in their mouths!  Soon I could not keep up.  Two trunks were searching my face and shoulders.  The big elephant grabbed my camera and yanked the strap, then let go. I was laughing as they ran their trunks over me.  One grabbed the plastic bag with the food, took the food out and handed me the bag thank you.  It was charming. Stinky, but charming.

Later that evening, I was able to attend a Buddhist service with one of the men who works here and the temple of the sun is the temple he usually attends.  We walked the short distance and discussed Thailand's version of Buddhism.  Thai's practice Theravidic Buddhism which is based on a Sanskrit text called the Theraveda.  This is also combined with elements inherited from Hinduism so that privately many Thai's also have images of Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and especially Ganesh in their homes.  This creates a rich blend of the two religions with a does of animism thrown in for good measure.  Hindu's also accept Buddha, but interpret him as the 9th incarnation of Brahma and the two faiths share many elements.  Adherents of Buddhism often worship at home as Hindus also do, but unlike Hindu's, Buddhists can attend prayer "services" which take place in the evening (around 7pm here) where they can chant the sacred Sankrit texts together under the leadership of monks.  

The temple itself is a marvel with one of the largest "sitting" Buddhas in the city. It is a popular temple and it was full.  I was able to sit outside the inner temple with Tong on a large granite platform.  Many people were outside with us.  We all took our shoes off.  The chanting rarely stopped, when just a few words were spoken and then the chanting resumed.  The smell of incense and flowers filled the air.  The incense represents the prayers ascending to Buddha, the flowers symbolize the purity of the monks and as you listen, a rhythm starts to emerge in the text as it is sung.   

On our way back I noticed a food place absolutely brimming with young Thais.  Tong told me it was a "toast bar".  You go in, get in line and order toast.  You can get it two ways; toasted toast as an intact slice, or steamed toast cut up in cubes for dunking!  There were eighteen different sauces you can have on the toasted toast, or in a cup for the steamed variety ranging from butter and sugar to coconut, orange and even peanut butter!  To go along, you can tea of some sort, iced tea, sweet tea and even bubble tea. Custards and puddings are also available!  It was a new experience to step up to the bar and order some toast which was puffy and delicious with some coconut custard!  I washed it down with icy green tea and I was good to go!

Bangkok!

After a day of delays I am finally here in Bangkok!  I must say that I am totally thrilled to be here and I love it!  This city of some sixteen million is one of the world's great cultural experiences.  It is clean, friendly and beautiful.  It is easy to get around and my impression is that there is sufficient infrastructure here to support the population.  My hotel, the Old Bangkok Inn is a delight. I can see why it is recommended!  As a "boutique hotel", only has eight rooms and each one is centered around a color theme.  I am currently staying in the "rice room" which has muted beige tones, silk covered beds, Thai furniture and a warm, cozy feel.  I arrived early in the morning here and the proprietor let me sleep in their deluxe room (The Rose Room) until my room was prepared.  It is a beautiful guest suite, complete with private, open air hot tub!

After a short nap, I went out to get my bearings.  The sultry air gives way to out and out tropical heat when the clouds clear.  I was wearing long pants to be allowed into some of the more sacred places (long pants required) and I was feeling the heat.  There are a dizzying number of spires all through the city, but nowhere more so it seems than around the Grand Palace.  The palace was closed when I arrived (it closes at 3:30), so I went "next door" to Wat Pho (A "wat" is a temple), and one of the MUST SEE items on my list.  The Giant Buddah.

Wat Pho was founded in the 16th century, but the present site really dates from the 1781 when it was completely rebuilt. It is filled with dozens of buildings and spires (stupas) in the several sanctuaries (think courtyards) within the complex. Some of the sanctuaries are guarded by giants that were transported from China and carved out of solid granite, others feature small gardens with sculptures of various sizes and a whimsical nature.  This wat also has one of the largest collection of Buddah figures to be found anywhere.  Most are covered in gold.  This wat also has a long standing association with the healing arts, including the teaching of traditional Thai medicine and massage.  Still, the highlight of this temple is the image of the giant reclining Buddah.   At over 100 feet long and over 40 feet high, this image of the supine Buddah as he passes into nirvana is indeed one of the sights to see here.  The image is modeled out of plaster over a brick core and covered entirely in gold leaf.   I was in a sort of hushed awe (so was everyone else) I took off my shoes, entered and walked entirely around this colossal figure.

I left the temple grounds and decided to walk towards the river. I came across the area where there has been a great deal of political unrest in recent weeks.  There was activity there. Thai people take their politics seriously and protest when the perceive their government has made a mistake.  In recent times, that has been unrest due to rival factions supporting the current government, which is in fact democratic but accused of "buying votes" from the very poor through corruption and those who wish for a different form on representative democracy where everyone does not have a vote.  The clashes have been intense lately.  My impression is that the army backs one side and the police back the other side.  That could lead to some interesting skirmishes.  People were making political speeches, there was a small crowd present.  Still, mostly it was the food vendors who were winning.  You could buy delicious street food right there, have a foot massage, and even purchase t-shirts and toys!

I next wandered to the amulet market.  Along this street there are dozens of people selling mall religious trinkets designed to keep in a purse, you home, your pocket, anywhere you would like to be reminded of the help from Buddah.  They are all fairly small, with the tiniest of the at about 2 inches high and piled along the street by the thousands.  The street terminated at an open air market where I wandered among the food sellers.  The food is quick friend right in front of you.  I chose a small piece of pork (no pork in Turkey or India).  The girl serving me chopped it up and put it into a plastic bag with some chopped up, friend garlic.  She also put in a small bag of fresh home made HOT sauce and a bamboo skewer.  It was street lunch for about one dollar.  I also got what I am calling "coke-in-a-bag". Here they take a plastic bag with handles,   put in lots of ice and then pour in an entire bottle of coke.  Next comes a straw and you are ready to go, with a coke hanging from your pinkie!

The evening was one of the other things I had been looking forward to:  Muay Thai kickboxing!  I caught a cab to Lumphini stadium, one of the two homes here to Thai boxing and a national institution.  There are several seat options available, but I decided on the spectator seats at ringside (however, anyone can see that the fun stuff is in the cheap seats where the betting is taking place)!  All in all, there were ten matches scheduled for the evening beginning with kids around 13 to 14 and ending with older boxers.  The seventh bout was for the Thai Bantam weight championship!  All of the fighters were very skilled and it was impressive to watch.  A small band consisting of a shawm, a drum and some small cymbals played whenever the fighting started and throughout the round.  Each match consists of five rounds of three minutes each.  For each round, the band plays a bit faster.  Simultaneously, there are family, friends and supporters for each fighter behind each corner yelling and shouting support for their person in order to sway the judges.  By the end of the fight, the crowd is in a frenzy and the athletes are working very hard to put on good showing.  It was as exciting a thing as I have ever done and a great way to end my first day in this remarkable city!

Mixed Blessings

My final days in India have been a mixed blessing.  As one might expect from words "Monsoon Season", it has rained torrentially with occasional thunder and lightening.  This is not so bad in that at least it is warm rain and coming from Oregon, rain is nothing new.  However, what happens here is that the city's infrastructure cannot keep up with the downpours.  The streets flood, water backs up and traffic becomes a significant issue.  For the last few days then, I have been venturing out to various sights around town as the weather will allow. 

However, I did get invited to conduct in a sort of festival commemorating the life of a Chennai musician named Handel Mandelay who was vital to the Chennai musical scene for many years.  In fact, his contributions were so substantial that he was awarded the title "Sri Padma" for his service to India.  This is like getting a "medal of honor"  it's a big deal.  Musicians from all over Chennai gathered to form a large choir at an old church (St. Andrews) which is referred to as the "Kirk".  It was indeed an honor to be allowed to conduct the choir in Mozart's "Ave Verum".  I felt very warmly received.

The next, Randy took me out to meet his mentor Jayrosh and his wife Joyce.  A remarkable man, Jayrosh is a Dalit (an untouchable) who has overcome his caste to achieve wonderful things.  He himself was mentored as a child and given and education.  He rose through the many layers of society and the academic world, served as head master for a school and retired after serving in the administration of the CSI (church of South India).  In his seventies, he speaks with great passion and conviction and is an inspiring man to meet.  Additionally, though they do not have children of their own, Jayrosh and Joyce have, in turn, taken in some twenty kids who have gone on to become doctors, teachers and businessmen and women.   The believe in the value of education and are passing on the blessings given to them.  Their last son is just finishing his MBA. What a treat to talk to them and visit them in their home! 

My last stop in Chennai was at the Temple Mount; the site where St. Thomas was actually martyred.  There is a small chapel there as well as a school and religious community.  The top of the mount also offers an impressive view of the sprawling city of Chennai and slightly cooler temperatures!  It was great to spend a few moments there to gain some orientation to the area.

My flight to Bangkok was supposed to take place that night.  It did, but I was not on it.  The story is quite long, but suffice it to say that because the first leg of my flight from Channai to Mumbai (Bombay) was delayed, I did not make the flight to Bangkok.  The net result was that I ended up spending a day in Mumbai on the nickle of Jet Airways. I arrived at the hotel at 4am and fell asleep watching a channel on TV which was like local cable of sadu's (priests) in some temple making offering...live.  When I awoke at noon, I was in a nice hotel and it was a warm, sunny day, so I decided to tour the city.  Taking a cab around  I visited various municipal sights, the Arabian Sea and the Mumbai home of Ghandi with its accompanying museum.  I also visited an area which is an enormous outdoor laundry run entirely by Hindu men who wash the clothes for some of the twenty million residents of the gigantic city!

Still, undoubtedly the highlight of the day was to visit the temple of Ganesh.  In the pantheon of Hindu gods, this one is my favorite.  The elephant headed deity is the god of prosperity and good fortune and one of his tusks is broken off for him to use as a pen to write with.  He was on the dashboard of the car I was in and the driver Kumal said he would take me to the temple.

As we approached, Kumal had me take off my shoes and socks.  He dropped me at the corner and said, "walk down this street.  No camera, just go in and return in 15 minutes".  I stepped out on the hit concrete and padded my way down towards the temple.  About half way down, a holy man dressed in orange with a long white beard and painted forehead approached me smiling and wrapped some brightly colored jute around my wrist.  He tied it off, smiled at me and sent me on my way, without asking for anything.  I felt happy about this and continued to the temple which had a very strict security system to protect it against terrorism.

I entered the temple complex and there were vendors selling various forms of offerings (poojah) with most of them selling moda (a type of sweet made from sugar and grains with some nuts and coloring added) or Jasmine flowers, the scent of which made the air heavy and wonderful.   I then entered the temple proper and saw a large tabernacle with an alter and a small and elaborate Ganesh in the center.   A crowd was around the altar and two sadu (priests) were taking the offerings and giving them to Ganesh and then returning them.  Several rows up were a gallery of spectators watching the whole thing and TV cameras!  This is what I was watching on TV last night!  I was motioned by a young monitor in a uniform to approach.  Not sure of what to do (I did not have any poojah).  I made an offering and dropped it in the slot on the marble altar.  The sadu approached and touched my forehead putting a bright orange spot in the center.  He then motioned for me to put my forehead on the altar (which I did).  When i came up, he smiled and wrapped a beautiful orange scarf around my neck, welcoming me and thanking me for coming!  He then gave me some muda (candy) to eat.  It was delicious, but I saved one.

I exited the temple area, smiling and feeling great.  The young monitor came up to me and smiled.  He said, "you are from America"?  I said, "yes", and he said, "I need a job"...."a job?"  I said.  "Yes" he said, "help me get a job".   Unsure of how to react to this, all I could do was smile and tell him I would pray for him.  In spite of the job request (which was odd) I felt great.  I smiled as I strolled down the street, blissfully oblivious to the many people asking me for money.  Other people actually motioned the beggars off.  It was as if they were saying "give this guy a break, he's been to the temple, let him enjoy it".  And I did.    

Conducting a choir in India!

Today started off with me making plans to return to my temple searches.  Instead, I received a phone call from Randy to come over and visit with some friends who were at his place from the US!  I went there to be introduced to Randy's cousin Carol and her friends Jane and Amy who are all from Oregon! (Estacada and Sandy to be exact).  They were accompanied by another friend from Seattle (Teri) and they were all great fun to be with.  They had been traveling in India and Nepal for the past several weeks and had a great many interesting stories to tell.  It was fun to be with them.  In spite of the rain that has set in (it IS the rainy season after all...) we were undaunted and set out for the Theosophical Society grounds.  Chennai is now the world headquarters for the Society which was founded in 1875 in New York as a means to study mediumistic phenomena.  Later, its mission was expanded to include philosophy, the brotherhood of mankind, comparative religions (especially eastern ones) and our relationship to nature. 

The grounds in Chennai feature both Hindu and Buddhist temples as well as a large library and  native plantings.  It also has a single Banyan tree that is said to cover an area as large as a football field! (It did by the way).  There were also butterflies, birds of all types (including parrots) and many species of flowers.  In the wet climate however, there were also mosquitoes and we were being eaten alive!  So we hopped in the cars and went a bit further to the free animal clinic where veterinarians treat animals of all types for free, only charging the owners for medicine.  India has many animals as pets and also millions of feral dogs and cats which roam the streets.  Any animal (including cattle, sheep, goats, and everything else) is lovingly cared for here, feral or not.  Quite a noble mission.  

After that, we went to a fabric store where the ladies tried on various types of garments.  Randy also tried on (and purchased) a long shirt (which comes to the knees).  The shop had fabrics of every conceivable color and it is small wonder that the world over has always come to the east for cloth of various types.  It was simply fun to be in there and I enjoyed the fashion show.  The fabric store was followed by coffee/dinner at a fabulous hotel were the ladies were staying, the Taj Connemara, where we enjoyed some food and conversation in the lap of luxury.  I bid the party farewell as Jane, Amy and Teri were heading back to the US that evening.  I was being picked up by a driver and taken to a rehearsal of the Chennai Choral Association!

I was met at the venue by Augustine Paul, a choral director and music teacher who is the current conductor.  He is a kind and gracious man and I enjoyed meeting the group members and listening to them work through their repertoire.  They were starting the rehearsal with their contemporary group of songs which included selections by Duke Ellington, Elton John and Andrew Lloyd Webber and it was their first rehearsal with the band that was accompanying them.  It was fun to watch them work through the repertoire and I have no doubt they will be ready when by the time of their concert in a few weeks!  The closed the set with Bohemian Rhapsody!  I loved it!

After the break, they worked on more traditional western choral music.  This is rare for an eastern group to do and Augustine has excellent taste.  They worked on pieces by Mendelssohn, Hubert Parry, Haydn, Mozart and Rutter.  They will also do some Brahms "Neue Liebeslieder Waltes" on their concert with dancers!  I was introduced and gracious accepted by the members as we worked on some selections by William Byrd.  The singers have lovely voices and I enjoyed working with them on repertoire that I love.   After the rehearsal, I had the pleasure of meeting the singers and talking with them.  They are delightful and gracious people!

Augustine informed me that my ride home was leaving, so I got in the car with four young ladies from the choir who were an absolute hoot to be with.  The car was driven by Tanvi who was a soloist that evening and who has done a great deal of voice work for the film industry in Chennai. She made sure I had my seat belt on and I am glad.  I learned that Chennai alone averages five traffic deaths per DAY!  I believe it.    Tanvi had been to America and we had a chance to compare our various musical experiences when the subject turned to cinemusic or film music.  The popular music in India is the music associated with the film industry.  It is ephemeral and does not last.  The latest film is the latest fad.  People line up by the THOUSANDS to see the latest film which always includes roughly seven song and dance numbers (which , in turn become the latest hits).  I learned that in addition to Bollywood (which is the name assigned to films from the north of India, there is Kollywood (films from the south).  Movies are sometimes in Tamil (south) or Hindu (north) and there are literally HUNDREDS of the films being released each year.   The good ones stick.  People idolize the stars.  Kids cut out their images and paste them in textbooks.  People also worship them like Hindu idols making poojah for them (using coconuts, etc.)  I think it is safe to say that some things are the same between east and west and adoration of stars (even though we all admit it is silly) seems to be healthy and alive in both countries!  They have provided me with a list of films to see if you are interested!

Visiting a Temple

I am learning a great deal about worship and societal structures in India.  There are many levels to things here (as you might expect) not only in worship, but in society as well.  In spite of a real effort by the government to cast off the caste system, it basically still exists and there is evidence of it everywhere.  There are  four basic castes with one extra sort of outside group.  The castes to a certain extent determine your social group, your profession and sometimes you even your diet.  These groups are the underpinnings of social structure in India.  Living a righteous life  and fulfilling your dharma (moral code of behaviour) raises your chance of being born into a higher caste in a later life and this raising your social standing.  At the top are the Brahmins (who are usually teachers and priests, next are the Kshatriya (the warriors), then the Vaishya (merchants) and finally the Shudra (the laborers).  There is one social group below these called the Dalits (also known as the untouchables) who  hold menail jobs such as street sweepers and latrine cleaners.  Some of the people born into this caste turn to Buddhism as it does not rely on societal hierarchies and thereby improve their circumstance.  The government also reserves a certain percentage of jobs for the Dalits to try to spread things aroung more equitably, however this sometimes has led to criticism from the upper castes that people without adequate qualifications are being allowed into jobs over better qualified applicants in order to meet government quotas.

There are several temples within the Chennai city limits and many of them are quite old.  I decided to visit one in Mylapore (which translates to "Peacock").  I took a tuk-tuk to the Kapaleeshwarar Temple and was immediately overwhelmed by the immense gate at the entrance.  Standing some 60-70 feet high, it is adorned with over 2,800 individual figures, all of which are richly painted.  The temple dates from 700AD and perhaps the oldest religious structure in Chennai.  In ancient days, it would have been obvious for quite a distance and it is quite overwhelming up close.   

As I approached, I was being motioned at by several people to remove my shoes.  You can either throw them in a pile and take your chances, or you can give them to a man who will keep them for you for 10 rupees (about 20 cents).  When I entered, the temple stone floor was hot from the sun and it burned my feet.  I moved in (kind of quickly) and a man rubbed white powder on my forehead.  I learned the powder was ash.  Each time you enter, you are reminded that we all come from ash and to ash we will return.  Like in Lent.  The temple is set out in a square which is the most holy and perfect shape in the Hindu cosmology.   There are many small temples inside the big one.  Not being a Hindu, I was not allowed into these, but could view them from the outside.  Each of these small temples is dedicated to a particular god and there are several at temple sites.  It has been estimated that there are over 330 MILLION different manifestations of gods in the Hindu pantheon of deities.  All are a manifestation (male or female) of the big THREE Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the sustainer) and Shiva (the destroyer).  All three are part of the one central god Brahma who is really manifest in everything.  Brahma is in meditation.  Always.  After creating the universe, he meditates.  

Those adhering to Hinduism can enter the smaller temple.  These are covered and there is a central deity inside, and low fire, candles and incense.  Inside is a sadu (priest) who takes offerings (Puja or poojah) of fruits and flowers (jasmine and lotus blossoms) from the faithful and places them before the altar.  The sadu then invokes the god to answer the prayers of the faithful.  Hinduism is open to anyone and does not preach or evangelize.  It is ancient, older than the other world religions I am studying.  I takes its teaching from the ancient (3,000BCE) Vedic hymns and texts written in Sanskrit.  Much of the music surrounding worship here is centered on the chanting of these texts, although there are also spiritual songs that are sacred, but not from the Vedic texts.  A different tonal system is also used in India and it is safe to say that music is not only central to Hinduism, it is life blood of the prayers.

As I made my way around the grounds, I observed a large banquet hall.  Inside were dozens of people who were eating off of banana leaves.  They were being fed by the temple monks as they were poor and homeless.  The temple was doing the work for the poor and needy and there are many such people here, especially in the lower castes.  In another part of the temple, a young couple was getting married in an open air pavillion.  We were invited to watch and even photograph them as they smiled, draped in Jasmine flowers.  Meanwhile, other families were strolling the grounds, talking with friends or relatives, or playing with their children.  While it was generally hushed within the grounds, the atmosphere was relaxed and casual except in the innermost temples.  People were invited to make a donation if they wanted to as it takes a great deal of effort to maintain the temple.  There are a total of over 10,000 painted figures in the temple and they are painted every 10 years by a crew of 300 people.  It's a huge job.

Outside the temple are vendors who specialize in various types of articles related to the temple.  Some sell poojah (offering items) such as flowers, fruit (coconuts are a regular item because of the pure, white inside when you crack them open.  Outside the temple people were throwing them on the ground all over to break them apart.  Other vendors sell likenesses of the various gods, incense, bracelets, and any variety of things designed to make poojah.  You can stroll the streets and make your choice.  There are also several religious article "supermarkets" outside the temple.  Here you can find anything you need for your home.  One floor is devoted to incense and saree's.  One floor is for religious statues and figurines.  Another is for recordings and the top floor is for books.  I roamed each floor, fascinated by the choices.  I saw books about Christian cosmology, Islamic works and many Hindu books.  I enjoyed browsing the children's section.  My favorite title was "Vishnu to the rescue!"

Rich Experiences

Everywhere I turn here there are new and exciting things and I am becoming more bold in my willingness to embrace them.  My first step was to try a tuk-tuk: the little three wheeled taxis that I have described as running on a lawnmower engine.  The drivers are barefoot and let the engines die at each intersection (thank goodness) and then start them each time they want to go by pulling up on a long lever next to them on the floor.  They sound like a go-kart and move in and out of traffic effortlessly.  Riding in one is like being in Disneyland with the colors, sounds and lights whizzing by and the air blowing your hair back.  It's crazy.  I took one of these contraptions back to Randy's  to meet with his friend Augustine Paul.  I was going to teach some voice lessons and was anxious to meet the students.  However, when I got to Randy's I was in for a big surprise....

There was a huge parade going on out in front of his place on Santhome High Road.  Literally THOUSANDS of people were marching and riding on vehicles.  They were shouting, dancing, playing drums and singing.  It reminded me of what carnival must be like in Brazil.  Everyone was wearing or waiving a three colored flag that looked to be red, black and yellow with a picture of a hand holding a torch in the center.  Others were waiving posters of a well dressed Indian man giving the "thumbs up" sign.  I thought it might be some sort of evangelical festival like Luis Palau or Billy Graham.  As it turns out (and I did not know at the time) it was a political rally for this man who is actually a cinema star here in India who is running for office! (sound familiar?)  The crowd was joyous, but also in a frenzy.  They saw my camera and wanted me to take pictures, so I obliged them.  I got some interesting results.  

I ducked again inside the enclosure surrounding St. Thomas' basilica.  It was quiet inside once I got past the military guards who were protecting the entrance.   A mass was taking place and the community was marching in procession around the building.  It was beautiful and the lights of the cathedral were reflected in the fresh rain puddles around the building.  I enjoyed the music and walked around the grounds which provided some respite from the crazy crowds outside.  I took photos and I listened.  What a strange mixture of sights and sounds. 

 

After mass ended,   I decided to brave the crowds and wandered through the streets filled with parked cars.  People simply gave up for the evening and left their vehicles there.  The alleys were packed and the food stalls were open.  It was Saturday night and people were out and about.  I walked past beggars and well dressed couples, people picking through rags and paper piles and those going out to dinner.  The smells of cooking food, propane stoves, fresh tuberose, wet garbage and incense filled the air and it was an overwhelming feast for the senses.  I finally made my way through the crowd to a tuk-tuk driver who did not look too happy about trying to work his way through the crowds.  A sister from the cathedral came up and asked where I wanted to go.  She smiled at me.  She told him to take me.  He wasn't going to mess with her....he took me.  He spoke no English, but he had a horn like you would find on a bike with a squeaky ball on the end, only this was a BIG one.  It made a great sound and was quite distinctive when compared to the more normal "adult" sounding horns around us.  I felt like I was in a clown car and laughed the whole way home. 

India!

Well, here it is the 18th of October (the Feast of St. Luke) and I am here in Chennai.  I have had difficulty with internet access, but have the problem solved for now.  A lot has happened in the last few days....

My flight from Turkey to India was interesting in that it passed through the tiny island kingdom of Bahrain which is in the gulf of Arabia.  This island is only 20 miles wide by 30 miles long, yet it is a central hub and the gateway to the Arab world.  I am also told it was one of the first Arabian Nations to discover oil.  The airport was perhaps the most interesting airport experience I have ever had in that people from all over the Arab world were there.  The clothing and languages around me were fantastic.  The airport features all of the usual duty free stuff you might expect, but also many restaurants and even a McDonald's with the name written in Arabic!  Interestingly, the airport also included a prayer room for Muslims who need to pray at specific times of the day.  The currency is beautiful and I changed a small amount of money so that I could bring some Denari home!  It was an incredible way to spend a three hour layover.

I arrived after an overnight flight in Chennai, which is India's fourth largest city.  The air was hot and humid and a rain shower erupted as I left the airport.  A simple cab ride to where I was staying was an event in itself!  The traffic here is incredible, unlike anything I have ever seen in that there do not seem to be any rules, except honk your horn and go like mad.  Seriously, I have not seen any accidents, but I wonder.  We raced down the streets between mopeds, bicycles and three wheeled taxis that sound as if they run on lawnmower engines, large Bedford trucks left over from the British days, buses, you name it.  Pedestrians of all ages walk in and out of the traffic, and when the light turns, the horns begin to blare and everyone drives into the intersection at once.  

This is a place of interesting juxtapositions and as foreign as Turkey seemed this is even more so.  Internet cafes and cell phone providers are next to filth in the streets, garbage and refuse.  High tech executives and women in spotless sari's walk along with the untouchables, who paw through the garbage, wear rags and have no shoes.  Cows wander the sides of the road and one I saw one person milking a cow along a busy intersection.  It all blends together into a plethora of sights, sounds and smells that are overwhelming and I am struggling to make sense of it all.

One of the delights of my first day was seeing school kids being dropped off by their parents.  It seems that this ritual goes on everywhere, but here I saw a father driving a motorcycle with FOUR kids on it through traffic!  Kids in uniforms go hand in hand.  Some schools are public, some are private.  My first few nights were in the apartment of a friend who has some rooms at the school for the deaf.    The kids are adorable and the people here are (in my opinion) among the most beautiful in the world.  

I wandered the streets in the afternoon of my first day, trying to take it in and not get myself killed by the traffic.  I came upon the Basilica of St. Thomas the doubter who brought Christianity to India in 58 AD.  The church houses his remains in its basement.  There is also a shrine here where Thomas was martyred in 70 and with his hand print in the wall. I plan to go there too.  Alongside the road are small shrines to Hindu gods and they show up in a variety of unexpected places.  With literally thousands of Gods, there are so many things about this ancient religion that I am sure it could take a lifetime to understand them.  Instead however, I am having the time of my life.

On Friday I was taken by the Rev. Baba Rao to a special prayer service at his parish of St. Luke.  Baba is a friend of Randy Giles, whose flat I was staying at and he wanted me to come with him.  He picked me up on Friday evening and along with his wife and daughter, we went to the home of a member of his parish whose son was leaving for the United States later that evening to work in San Jose.  I watched as Baba blessed the young man and I was honored to be a part of such an intimate meeting.   I offered my wishes for him as well.  What a different life he will have....outside his home as we left, there were people gathered at a small Hindu shrine, men stripped to the waist, lighting candles in the sultry night air.

When we arrived at Baba's church, I was ushered inside his home (after I made friends with his pooch Jojo).  I met Baba's mother and a man named Charlie who is sort of an itinerant musician who moves throughout the South Indian diocese.  He was a school chum of Baba's and was going to lead the service.  Inside the church, I took my shoes off and went barefoot on the cool concrete floor.  The women sat on one side and the men on the other all barefoot which is really the way of doing things here.  Chennai is very conservative.  Baba opened the service with prayers and then Charlie took over.  He has a beautiful "reedy" singing voice that works well with the style of music he sings.  He was accompanied by a fantastic keyboard player and a tabla player also.  In addition to singing, Charlie preached in Tamil (the language of this region) in a humorous and engaging way and played the flute as well, moving effortlessly between speech and song.  He even re-told bits in English for my benefit.  There were moments of question and answer and the liturgy was participatory.  The time flew by.

At the end of the service, Charlie and the other musicians were brought up and given beautiful silk scarves to thank them for coming.  Chennai is the place in India for silk and it is famous in this region.  I was not at all prepared to be asked to stand up myself, but I was, and was immediately wrapped in a beautiful orange scarf by the men in the congregation!  They then shook my hands.  It was a moving welcome to say the least and the symbolism was powerful. 

I then met members of the community afterwards who simply wanted to talk and to greet me.  Some offered prayers, most wanted to just talk to me and see what I thought.  It was great.

After the service, I was asked back to Baba's house for dinner with his family.  The meal was delicious and the flavors indescribably complicated.  There were at least four courses and each one had at least three sauces to go with it, from onion and yogurt sauce, to cardamom sauce, to sauces with garlic and chili's to coconut chutney.   I cannot describe it all except to say that the cuisine is as rich, deep and complex as the culture and society found here.  I cannot think of a better introduction! 

 

A Day in the Desert

What an amazing place this is!  The air is dry and cool in the mornings and reminds me of the climate in New Mexico.  I am sure it is hot in the summer, but in a few weeks, I am told the area will be covered with snow.  I awoke to see the air filled with balloons against the morning sky.  This is a big activity in Cappadocia and although I won't be able to do it on this trip, it will give me yet another reason to return.  

After another gigantic offering for breakfast, I met up with a tour.  We visited several spots for photos and discussed the ancient landscape which has been home to many civilizations.  Most important from my perspective, the early Christian hermits sought this area to escape persecution from the Roman empire.  The cliff dwellings provided an excellent place to hide and also to view any possible enemies coming.  We visited the Goreme open air museum which has been designated a UNESCO world heritage site.  The museum is a series of cliff dwellings which in fact were early churches dating from the 3rd century.  They represent the earliest dwellings designed for monastic life and devotion to Christianity.  The Desert Fathers, some of my most cherished early writers, lived here and founded monasteries and convents in the cliffs. 

St. Basil was the first, but many more followed.  As a result, there are literally thousands of churches hidden in the rocks in these valleys and one could hike them for weeks and never find them all.

We toured the museum which was very busy.  Tour groups are only allowed 3 minutes in each building!  Our guide talked fast, but was very informative as we looked at early cave frescoes on the walls.  Many had been defaced by Islamic worshippers after the Ottoman empire took over, but in most cases, this meant only removing the face from the images as that is not allowed in Islamic worship. In some cases, other types of damage had taken place until governments from around the world provided money to help create and protect these churches.  Still, there are literally (as I said) thousands in the valleys that are still unprotected.  I was in awe of the spaces and moved by the spirit that would bring people to this harsh land to spend a life of asceticism and contemplation.  It is simply amazing.  

After this, we were take to a "cave" for a lovely Turkish lunch of traditional stew, rice, baklava, soup and beans.  A wonderful Kanan player provided the music and I enjoyed talking with the group members who were from all over.  I was the only American in this group, but just about everyone spoke English.  After lunch, we were taken to a "carpet demonstration" and you know what that meant...a sales pitch.

I am always amazed that everyone assumes that because I am an American, I am rich.  The world targets us and I believe we certainly do our part to support the local economy.  The more I travel, the more jaded I get.  I do know that we as a society make more than most of these folks in various countries, but I have a hard time with the "speil"" that is directed most often at me.  Such was the case with the carpet joint.  I have become a but cynical....and also learned a great deal about carpet.  When a question was asked, I could answer it.  And I did.  I think I was messing up the guys presentation and I also think I knew a few things he did not.   Clearly though, I was the target.  They took me to a room and showed me a lovely rug for $23,000USD.  Not kidding and it ain't happening....They were disappointed, but after the way things are going on Wall Street, there are going to be a LOT of disappointed vendors in Turkey.  Talk about a "new world order".

We then roamed the valleys for a bit, but the weather turned cold and rainy making photography difficult. It was still beautiful, but the photo opportunities diminished with the sun.  Too bad as the valley with the "mushroom" or "fairy chimneys" is quite amazing.  Formed from volcanic basalt cooling over limestone, the chimneys have a top which is different from the stone carved out beneath.  The effect is striking and fanciful. We stopped at several other geologically interesting sites on the way, but again the weather slowed things a bit.  

We ended the day at a pottery center where we learned about the ancient red clay techniques associated with the region.  In fact, the production of pottery is the number one industry in the region with some spectacular results.  It was very interesting and I enjoyed the demonstrations. In fact, a man is expected to be able to throw pots in this area, or is not considered a good husband, because if he cannot, he cannot provide for his family. Alas, I would be a bachelor...Finally, we were take to a show room and enticed to buy.  I cannot imagine traveling with one of these pieces.  However, they were incredible and I really do appreciate the work.  It's incredible.  I found the "evil eye" design especially interesting.  Turquoise and dark blue mixed.  Beautiful.

After bidding good bye to the tour, I spent the evening walking around Uchisar.  The evenings are quiet with only the sounds of the dogs barking and running in packs (Turkish dogs seem to be descended from one breed and they are not exported), and perched from the tops of walls, families cooking and living a much more rural "Anatolian" lifestyle.  Smoke comes from the chimeys, the evening smells of cooking food and the call of the Imam signals time for evening prayer as the stars come out.  Very beautiful.  I returned to the hotel for a quite Turkish dinner and a glass of Raki, a strong Turkish liquor flavored like Anise.  One glass was enough.  I shall miss Turkey and would love to return some day.  Everyone ought to see this place.  It's truly amazing.  I am leaving for India tomorrow in what promises to be a LONG travel day.  As I go to bed, the wind comes up.  A strong storm is moving in tonight.  I fall asleep in a candle lit room....   

Cappodocia

I arrived in Cappodocia on Monday.  I took a Turkish Air flight that was more comfortable than any domestic flight I have had in the US in recent years.  First rate.    After flying into Kayseri, I was taken by van to my hotel in Uchisar.  I was expecting to stay in cave as that is one the highlights of visiting this region of Turkey.  People as far back as the Hittite culture (2,000-3,000 BCE) have been living in these valleys and utilizing the natural caves formed in the fairy- like rock steeples here.  The hotel I am in (the hotel Karvelik) is not a cave hotel, but it is a fabulous place to stay. I was treated like a veritable sultan from the moment I arrived.   While my room was being prepared, the hostess Gulan invited me to have breakfast.  I was reminded of the John Pinette comedy bit where he goes to Italy to eat and tells them he is starving and they proceed to nearly kill him by bringing him soooo much good food.  So it was here.  I had to laugh as they brought out about ten plates of stuff including four types of olives with fresh walnuts and herbs from the garden, four types of Turkish cheese, bread, toast, pastries, four types of freshly made jam from the garden (I am not making this up) two types of sausage, Nutella and peanut butter, cucumbers, tomatoes, an omelette,  herb flavored water and fresh coffee!  I actually got out my camera and took a picture.

I was then taken up to the blue room and again my breath was taken away by the beautiful space I would be staying in.  I felt like a sultan in this huge space with a reading area (covered with pillows), wine with my name on the bottle from the local winery, grapes and toasted sesame seeds, a large feather bed, a spa tub, veranda....you get the idea.   I was tired from a relatively sleepless night before and fell into bed for a short nap.  

When I woke up, I decided to go out and  walk around.  Uchisar is a beautiful village in the heart of Turkey where life is slow and rural feeling.  The town is situated at the top of a hill which made it an important place strategically.   At the crown of the hill is the Citadel, a rock like formation willed with caves that is the highest point around for miles.  I hiked around the town and then started climbing.  As I was nearing the top area, a man stepped out of a cave.  He was small, dressed in a dirty sport coat and he definitely had a drink or two.  He spoke only French and Turkish.  I had learned that the French were really the first to discover this place as a destination in the 1950's.  Many businesses here have French names, "Bon Marche" etc.    I was surprised to learn I could communicate with him in French enough to sort things out and we began to climb in and out of caves.  Apo had been raised in the region and moved through the small spaces very comfortably.  I realized as he took me around that he was giving me an tour.  I knew what was coming later, but it really was a unique view from the citadel and I have to say that I got some of my best photos of the day from the places he brought me.  At the end, he asked to be paid and I was happy to oblige him.  He was cheaper than a tour and cheaper than admission to most things here.  I'm sure he needed the money and it was a unique experience.

I then "summited" the citadel...along with many others and enjoyed the view of the surrounding valleys.  Many of us (from all over the world) stayed at the top for sunset.  You could see for miles as the moon came up.  The highest peak in Turkey, mount Argeus (at some 3,970 meters and perpetually snow capped) was barely visible on the horizon.  As the sun set, the Imam began singing his call to worship at the mosque.  I descended the citadel and bought a bag of what I am calling "Turkish Trail Mix" although the sign advertised "Turkish Viagra". I picked the contents of the bag which included sesame covered nuts, almonds and dried fruits of all sorts including apples, apricots and dates.  It was delicious.     After having a dinner of meat and a wonderful Turkish grilled sort of flat bread filled with cheese, onions and herbs called gozleme, I wandered the dimly lit streets back to the hotel in the chilly night air, filled with the smell of wood smoke from the cooking fires in the local homes.  

Hagia Sophia

Everywhere there is color.  This city is so rich in textures and colors, smells and sounds!

Today was Sunday and what better way to honor the day than to spend it in one of the greatest buildings in the world that honors both the Christian and the Muslim traditions?  My plan was to spend the day in Hagia Sophia and again, take as many photos as possible. 

At first I wandered the streets and photographed anything that looked interesting.  This meant a LOT of photos.  I had not eaten by 1pm and decided it was time to seek some lunch.  I stopped by a walk up place on the street that everyone was going to and ordered a meat pita.  I spoke to several students from the US who were studying in Germany and had come over for a few days.  A great endorsement for study abroad, these folks were making the most of it.  It was fun to talk to them.  Then my sandwich arrived.  It had fries in it.  Fries in a pita. 

Emperor Justinian had his incredible church built as part of a larger scheme to restore the greatness of the Roman Empire.  By the 6th century AD, the glory of old Rome had fallen away and Constantinople was really the greatest city in Christendom.  The church itself is built over the ruins of two previous churches and evidence of the earlier structures has been discovered in various excavations around the church site.  When you enter, you simply stand there in silence.  Sure, there are bigger buildings in the world.  Even bigger churches.  But when you pause to consider the history here it simply defies comprehension that this building is almost 1500 years old.  Unlike the massive elephant piers in the blue mosque, the support for the dome is hidden in the walls, supported by 40 gigantic ribs made out of hollow bricks from Rhodes.  It makes you wonder what is holding the place up.

The walls are covered with mosaics of Jesus, Mary, John the Baptist, and of course, Justinian.  When the Ottoman occupation took place, the mosaics were covered as Islam forbids images in in the mosque.  Instead, Islamic writing tells the stories of the covered frescoes, so that the spirit of the images is preserved.  Islam recognized Jesus as a prophet and Mary as the mother of the prophet.  If fact, Islam was fairly tolerant of Christians practicing their faith.  They basically let the early Christians that were absorbed into the Ottoman empire continue to practice their faith.  The altered the building very little structurally except to add some minarets around the outside, paint over the frescoes, hang huge medallions with the names of the Islamic prophets on them (in Arabic), and buttress the walls from outside.  With it's first nine hundred years as a Christian building and the next four hundred as an Islamic building, the best choice when Turkey became a secular state was to make it a museum, which it now is.  

I went to the upper gallery today to try to photograph the frescoes.  I was reprimanded by a guard for using a tripod.  Hide your tripod.  I am learning this.  They think you are a professional when you use a tripod.  I hid my tripod and was able to sneak it out for a few shots.  Good thing it is small.  I can reflect at length about why it should be OK to photograph however you need to.  They say" no flash" and there is even a sign up to that effect, but people were using flashes all over the place.  Nowhere, anywhere does it say "no tripod".  I rest my case.    I took a total of 270 photos in there.  About a dozen are good.  I was happy to spend the time there. I went downstairs and took more photos.  And used a tripod.  No one even bothered me at all.  Maybe that particular guard was frightened by a tripod as a small child....

As I left the building, I stopped for some tea and watched the crowds.  The apple tea and flower tea here is great.  I'm starting to like tea.  As I was walking to the garden, a very sweet old woman asked if I would buy a scarf from her.  I had not planned on buying a scarf and I thanked her.  She called after me and kept lowering the price.  It was crazy.  She was asking for half the price in the markets.  She was sweet.  I couldn't resist her.  I bought a scarf and we were both happy.  I then came back and used the mini-disc recorder that Melissa loaned to me.  I recorded the call to worship at 6:40pm.  Then it was dinner time.  I stopped to watch the dervishes and listen to some music.  I wanted to find a nice place for dinner, but not THAT nice of a place.  I wanted someplace where they did not put fries in my sandwich.  I finally found the perfect place for me.  Not fancy, not expensive, the name said it all:  "Meat House".  I dove through the door and had a superb mixed grill with Turkish meatballs (spicy!) and various other grilled meats set on top of a grilled sesame pita.  Veggies and yogurt completed the meal and it was delicious.  You can see how this style of cooking evolved from nomadic tribes.  It is everywhere here and it is great.  A quiet walk home topped off the evening.  I need to be up early.  I leave for Capodoccia tomorrow!

 

"Big Trouble"

I had several things I wanted to accomplish on Saturday.  I stopped in for a cup of tea (everyone offers you tea) with Imit.  He showed me some very beautiful rugs, but they are not on the itinerary for this trip.  However, I will say this, the prices here are far below US prices and that includes shipping to the US.  There was no pressure here either.  I like that.  It was mostly just looking at beautiful pieces of art and talking.  If you are looking for a rug, I know where to go (and I'm not on commission)!  After this,     I decided to tour the museum of Islamic Art which featured a beautiful collection of things from early Islam.  Everything was here from stone carvings and road markers, to pottery and raku, calligraphy and fantastic carpets that were intact after hundreds of years: testament to their durability.  The museum also featured presentations on traditional vegetable dyes and where particular colors in rugs come from.O Other sections featured designs associated with various tribes.  It's hard for us to think this way, but these amazing rugs are a not only a form of artistic expression for these illiterate peoples, but a way of telling stories.  The ethnographic section described the various tribes and their traditional, nomadic practices.  This provided a great perspective on the peoples in this part of the world.  

After this, I went to an underground cistern that my friend Bill Crane had told me about.  Created in the 6th century, this cistern holds thousands of gallons of water and features several hundred pillars that were brought to the city while Hagia Sophia was under construction.  One of the reasons the great church was built so quickly was that some of the materials were literally recycled!  Many of the pillars in Hagia Sophia were brought from other demolished buildings from even more ancient parts of the world.  The left over pillars were used in this cistern.  Some 15 meters below the street, the huge cistern is dark and mysterious with water dripping down as you move through the dimly lit passageways.  Carp move through the water slowly beneath your feet and the whole place is lit in a deep orange/red color.  Soft, echoing flute music reminiscent of an ancient Greek aulos add to the effect and it's pretty creepy.  In addition, two pillars in the northwest corner feature the carved face of Medusa.  As close to Halloween as I will get while I am here!  

After returning to the surface, I headed for the spice market.  On my way there I encountered a large crowd and as I got closer, I saw a policeman in a bomb suit.  "Big Trouble" a vendor told me, "bomb".  I decided to find another route.  I saw that the perpetrators were captured on TV, but nothing exploded thank goodness!  I found a much safer route that took me to the waterfront again where I found literally HUNDREDS of fishermen along the mouth of the Bosphorus.  The esplanade was bustling with activity as people made their way home.  the snacks I see eaten most here are roasted chestnuts (everywhere), roasted ears of corn (also everywhere) and a sandwich that people were jostling for around stalls set up around the waterfront.  Called "Balik" , it consisted of a small, grilled fish put between two big halves of crusty bread with onions and lettuce.  That's it.  I did not try one yet, but it is on my list!  Instead, I watched two young boys about 6 years old throwing small bits of bread over a rail so that they would hit people on the head as they were coming up out of the subway.  I busted them by laughing at what they were doing and they grinned sheepishly.

I went next to the spice market and as you might imagine, it was astounding.  Filled mostly with local people, it was a madhouse of spices, produce, meats, poultry and fish.  There were also people selling toys and nuts, wallets, you name it.  I stopped at a place and had a piece of Turkish delight which was given to me by the vendor.  It was delicious and reminded me of the stuff we get at home around Christmas.   I stayed here until the market closed and began to make my way home past the mosques which were just opening for evening prayer around 7:45.  I stopped by a crowded vendor for a sandwich.  What I ended up with was interesting.  It basically said "hot dog" of some sort.  The vendor brought a wiener out of a vat of reddish water and placed it in a bun.  Then he stuck it inside a panini press and grilled it flat.  He then removed it and put french fries and pickles in it and then squirted ketchup and mayo on it.  Finally, he stuck a tiny, plastic cocktail fork in it to eat the fries with...  It was weird, but mildly filling.

As I walked home, I bought two tiny pieces of pistachio balkava.  It was delicious and very sweet.  The perfect redemption for a day of mediocre meals.  This was the real deal.  I took photos all they way home and called it a night.  I will have to go out for music another evening. I ended the day by watching Turkey and Bosnia-Herzegovina play football on TV.  In case you are interested, Turkey won 2-1.

Full day in Istanbul

It's nice to hear from people and know this blog thing is working!   I spent all of Friday on a tour of the old part of Istanbul (Sultanmehet).  It was a wonderful day with a tour of the ancient Roman hippodrome (where chariot races took place), the Blue Mosque, the incredible Hagia Sophia (Anya Sophia in Turkish), Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar.  

I was taken around with a small group by our guide (Omar) who was great and really knew his ancient history.  We viewed the pink Obelisk in what remains of the Hippodrome (chariot races) brought here by Theodosius from Egypt in 390 AD.  The obelisk was carved in Egypt in roughly 15oo BCE and weighs about 200 tons.  It was an amazing feat to bring it here that long ago. (It would be an amazing feat today too!)  

We followed that with a visit to the Blue Mosque.  This amazing building was created in the 17th century by Ahmet I.  Designed by the architect Sinan, this building takes its name from the beautiful blue tiles found on the inside.  The building was designed to rival Hagia Sophia and is filled with light.  It is still a working mosque and prayers are observed five times a day here.  We got a chance to learn much more about Islam from Omar as well and I was grateful for the opportunity to ask him questions.  

Next came the building that was ostensibly the whole reason for coming to Istanbul, Hagia Sophia.  It's difficult to describe how incredible this place is.  Built in 527 by emperor Justinian, this building was completed in just 5 years using 10,000 workers!  You couldn't even do that today.  The building stands over 17 stories high and has a dome spanning over 90 feet which makes it STILL the 4th largest dome in the world behind St. Peter's (Rome) St. Paul's (London) and the Duomo (Florence).  The thing is, this building is a millennium older than any of those other structures!  Incredible.  Following the Ottoman invasion in 1453, the Muslims knew what they had and did nothing to change it structurally.  The simply covered the frescoes, and hung medallions inside with the names of the prophet and his followers inscribed in Arabic at various points in the building.  In the original apse of the building (facing East) they added a Mihrab or "gateway to heaven" off center in the apse.  By moving the Mihrab four feet south of center, they effectively, "pointed the way to Mecca" without having to destroy the building. Ingenious really.  They had to pull me away from this place and I will return shortly!

After that, we went to Topkapi palace and learned about the life of the Sultan's as well as the political structure of the Ottoman world.  It was very interesting as we viewed the Harem (I wanna know more about this....) the kitchens, the library, the crown jewels (heavily guarded by guys with uzzi's) and the reliquary where there were such things as the staff of Moses, the Sword of king David and the footprint of Mohammed. 

Following lunch, we went to a carpet shop where we learned about the various degrees of quality in rug making as well as the various styles.  Over coffee and tea, they would love to sell us something, but they did not put the hard sell on anyone.  They simply showed us a zillion rugs and wanted to talk about rugs.  If you were interested, great.  If not, no big deal.  I enjoyed it and loved talking to them.  

Following this, we went to the GRAND BAZAAR.  I'm not kidding.  I love to shop.  I am a world champion shopper and when I saw this place my jaw hit the floor.  This Bazaar is over hundreds of years old and has somewhere between 4,000 and 5,000 vendors in it.  It was simply crazy, cacophonous fun.  I loved every minute of it (we only stayed for 45).  

At the end of the tour, I went to the Marmara sea wall and watched people fish as the sun set.  t was beautiful as the evening cool set in.  The climate is very much like home at this time of year in the evening. Cool breeze, low 50's and threatening to rain for tomorrow.  I finished the evening meeting some folks in the small and civilized bazaar across the street.  I met a music student and we talked, drank tea and listened to C.D.'s which I will try to load onto the Blog at some point!  Following this was a dinner of Turkish "Ravioli"-small amounts of meat in pasta served in a garlic, yogurt and lemon sauce, and a main course of lamb rolled in pistachios with a lovely demi-glaze..  I happily fell asleep after a very full day. 

Welcome to Istanbul!

After a (mercifully) uneventful flight over, I made it to Istanbul!  What an amazing city!  This is truly the experience I was looking for!  I immediately realized how little I knew about this part of the world.  The city is perfectly situated between the sea of Marmara (which empties into the Aegean-which in then empties into the Mediterranean) and the Black Sea and also sits at the mouth of the Bosphorus River.  I can understand how this site was selected as its strategic advantages for controlling commerce are obvious testament to the intellect of the original founders.  The atmosphere here is a perfect blend of Western and Middle Eastern.  People dress in modern clothing and clothing we might fully associate with the Muslim world (veils etc.) side by side.  The air is filled with the calls of the Imams from the various mosques five times a day, the shouts of street vendors and the smell of charcoal fires, kebabs and exotic perfumes.

  

Upon arriving, I went for a brief walk and sat down in an outdoor cafe to watch a dervish perform for an audience snuggled under blankets, drinking tea and smoking hookahs.  I'll try to include some photos with this blog (we'll see!).  I met several vendors who simply wanted to talk about the state of things in America shared tea with them and spent some time discussing politics and the financial impact of what is going on at home.   It's clear that people over here would love to see us elect Obama and know that if we do so it will have a positive impact on the way the rest of the world views us.  I agree...

My hotel is charming, right out of the Orient Express Movies and vintage 1920's.  In the heart of the old part of the city, the Sultanahmet Palace is just right for my outings as it really feels Turkish and is very comfortable. I am across the street from the Blue Mosque, built in the 17th century by Sultan Ahmet I who set out to build a structure that would rival the nearby Hagia Sophia in beauty.  (He came pretty darn close in my opinion).   Quite a thing to have right outside your door... I was overwhelmed by the sights in the night sky around me and attempted some photos.  Hagia Sophia is also visible from the hotel, but is a short walking distance away.  I will see both buildings on the tour I am taking tomorrow and intend to visit them by myself after that.  Hagia Sophia is a building I have been waiting to see my entire adult life and truly one of the architectural wonders of the world.  I can't wait to see things here and to learn more...like how to work a Turkish bath... 

Before I leave...

It's the night before I leave and I am simultaneously thrilled, excited and nervous.  I am so very fortunate to have this opportunity and grateful for the love and support of my family and friends.  There is so much in the world to see, experience and share and the best way I know to do that is to jump right in.  In the next three weeks I will visit Turkey, India and Thailand with the hope of gaining some insight and perspective on these parts of the world and the people who live there.  I intend to share these experiences with my students  and anyone else who is interested (and maybe some people who are not...).  I believe in the inherent goodness of people.  I believe that in spite of differences in doctrine, ethnicity, nationality and spiritual orientation, there is a willingness to share our stories and to reach out to each other.

Even though I have worked as music director at St. Michael and All Angels Episcopal church for the last twelve years, I have only experienced St. Michael's Sunday (the Sunday closest to September 29th) as a day for celebrating the victory of the archangel Michael over the dragon and the casting down of the legions of evil.  I have associated certain hymns and texts and even flowers known as "Michaelmas Daisies" with this day.  These flowers are actually Asters which bloom riotously in September, offering beautiful shades of purple and pink.  I also learned from my wife and others at church that fall term in England is referred to as "Michaelmas Term". Beyond that, I have never had the opportunity to explore the meaning of the season of Michaelmas.

Recently, while learning how to set up a blog, I learned through my cousin's wife Krista that the actual liturgical season of Michaelmas begins on the feast day of St. Michael (September 29th) and extends through Halloween.  It precedes All Saints Day (November 1st) and All Souls Day (November 2nd) and marks the "beginning of the end" of the liturgical year which will begin anew with Advent.  It is a season which not only celebrates harvest, but also acts of bravery, honor, justice and integrity. I don't now how many of these wonderful attributes can be associated with this trip and I am not sure any of them can, but I do know that I will approach this trip with a loving heart, hoping that I can work for the "greater good" in the world.  I intend, through this pilgrimage, to seek renewal and transformation through the experiences I am about to encounter and to share them.   I invite you to join me on my journey.