Wat Arun.

Today was a day to visit another of the many wats (temples) in Bangkok.  With over 400 of them in Bangkok alone, it is difficult to choose.  However, Wat Arun (the temple of the Dawn) beckons so beautifully from across the river Mae Nam Chao Phraya that the decision is an easy one.  I made my way down towards the river and waited as I looked at the chocolate brown water.  There are many ways to get across; by conventional ferry, by covered boat, or by high speed daredevil streamlined boats that look like giant canoes with car engines strapped to the back.  These dragsters tear up and down the river at fantastic speeds, defying anyone to catch them as they race back and forth.  I have been told they are fun, but that you should also know how to swim if you ride in one.

The ferry slowly chugged its way across and as it did, the beautiful temple came fully into view.  Wat Arun is named after the Indian god of the dawn (Aruna).  It was on this spot that King Taksin came upon a shrine that local people used.  He took this as a sign that this is where his palace should be built, before it was eventually moved across the river.  The dominant feature is the central tower which is roughly 82 meters tall.  Built in the first half of the 19th century, it is covered with countless small ceramic tiles made of glazed porcelain.  There are also murals depicting the life of Prince Siddhartha (the Buddha) and the ashes of Rama II are also interred there.  The climb to the tower is not so much and endurance act as one of courage for it feels as if it is vertical.  Fifteen steps take you up to the first generously wide platform.  There are 22 STEEP steps up to the next level which affords a nice glimpse of the city and some slightly cooler temperatures!  The next staircase is the scary one!  19 more nearly vertical steps have you hanging on for dear life as you climb to the next (and final overlook) that offers a stunning  view of the city in all directions, but especially overlooking the river.  The breeze from this vantage point is glorious.  However, going down is even more scary that climbing up, many folks choosing to descend backwards.  

The wat also features huge beautiful temple bells and manicured grounds, glorious statues and is certainly one of the most visible and important in a city filled with important sites.  There are even cut-out Thai dancer and Thai god figures that you can put your head in and get your picture taken, however, if you do, someone jumps out and asks you for 40 baht!  Ha!  

After the ride back, I came across a place offering pad thai for 30 baht (about 90 cents).  My wife, Leslie, said I should try it over here and see if it is anything like the pad thai we both love at home.  I am happy to that it is very much like the pad thai we have at home only better, for two reasons: 1.  It is only 90 cents and 2. It is in Thailand!  Truth is, I sat in the open air and a nice lady approached me and said to call her "Shelly", many Thai's do this rather than have you wrestle with their Thai name.  She brought me pad thai, a cold bottle of water, a coke and a fresh spring roll cut into pieces and placed in a plastic bag.  Some dipping sauce was also poured into the bag and a bamboo skewer was speared through the spring roll.  It was glorious to sit in the market and watch the activity while enjoying a delicious version of my favorite Thai dish.  Shelly contends it is the tamarind that is the essential ingredient, along with pickled radish.  She wrote out the basics for me in my notebook and I will do my best to re-create them at home.  A man approached us and sat down.  He introduced himself as Mr. Tong.  He looked at me and said, "you need a suit".

Now, many people come to Bangkok to buy a suit.  My friend Randy had suggested it also when I was in India.  Basically, you can go to a tailor here, pick out the style you want and the cloth you want (generally silk or a silk/wool blend).  They will measure you (even come to your hotel) and have it ready within hours.  They will even deliver it pressed and ready to go to your hotel room, all for $150-200 depending upon what you want.  Some offer deals where they will make an extra pair of slacks and or 2-3 shirts for another $50 bucks.  Incredible.  As I mentioned, I did not come here to buy a suit, but Mr. Tong insisted I look.  He said he would get me a cab which would take me to a place (Manhattan Fashions) and that I was to go DOWNSTAIRS "don't you know?" he would say, "where the Thai men go."  In turn, the cab would wait and then take me for a Thai massage (which would last two hours) and then take me to my hotel.  He negotiated the cab fee...50 baht (like $1.20...)  I did not want a suit, but reluctantly I got in the cab, not wanting to offend him.

I told the cab driver, "I do not want a suit." "OK" he said, "but you look anyway for Mr. Tong not get mad at me".  "You look and I wait, then we go".  I could handle that, and I  have to admit that the place was great.  If  I was looking for a suit, this would be the place to do it.  The linings were as beautiful and the exteriors and they were a seriously good deal. I looked at the merchandise and the quality of the garments. I sat and talked with the salesman (who did not pressure me in any way) and I thanked him, but said I was not interested.  With a friendly shrug he thanked me for coming by. I had fulfilled my agreement with Mr. Tong.  I wanted a legendary Thai massage.   The cab driver took me to a spa he guaranteed would give me a great Thai massage; a legitimate massage mind you.  In Bangkok, there are many types of things labeled "massage", so I was not sure.

The spa turned out to be a beautiful place where a hostess came out and showed me the options.  I took the most conventional package which was a traditional Thai massage with essential oils and herbs, lasting two hours.  The lady who was to give the massage greeted me and we took the elevator up to the spa area.  I was escorted to a lovely private room where I was instructed to take a shower, cover myself in a garment provided and then knock on the door to tell her I was ready.  After doing so, she came in and I was instructed to lie down on the table.  I was then covered with towels.  Now the nice lady giving the massage was about my age, and short, maybe 5'1" or 5'2", but she was about to give me the most rigorous and I will say best massage of my life.  Thai massage is intense.  It involves manipulating joints and stretching the victim a variety of ways that my body does not normally want to bend.  She began by getting on the table and climbing onto me.  Kneeling on the backs of my thighs, she began to pop joints and pull me in every direction!  For over an hour she did this, first without oil and then with oil scented with herbs.  She followed this with a treatment of steaming herbs in a bag heated to about 1,000 degrees Kelvin which she "plopped" all over my body.  I kid about the heat, but it was wonderful.  She also concentrated on my scalp and head and there was a definite feeling of positive energy about the whole process, accompanied by soft, Thai classical music.  After two hours, I was a noodle.  A very happy noodle.  She brought me tea and I thanked her for the most wonderful massage experience I have ever had.  The cab driver met me and took me back to my hotel.  I needed a nap and I got one, but I still wanted dinner!  Getting another cab, I made my way to China town.

My friend and travel agent Nancy Wilhite calls Bangkok the "Blade runner City" and I can see why.   China town is a perfect illustration with its neon signs, all night activity, food stalls, exotic smells and other worldly aura. It feels like a separate city within Bangkok.  As I walked down the street there were huge shark fins hanging from hooks, barbecued meats, fresh seafood in tanks and bird nests for soup.  I picked a spot (there were dozens to choose from) and ordered the shark fin soup.  Illegal in the US, this delicate soup was flavored with crab meat and mushrooms and a lovely fish undertone.  At 300 baht (about $10) a bowl, it was not cheap, but it was delicious and nothing compared to the bird nest soup which started at a staggering 8,000 baht per bowl.   Packages of nests were available for sale too. I had heard about these before, little, delicate nests built from regurgitated bird fluids taken from caves.  Rated by their purity, the most expensive bundles of nests were a mind boggling 32,000 baht  (over $1,000 USD) and considered a delicacy for only the most wealthy.   I was happy with my shark fin soup and the lovely dinner that followed thank you very much.  I went back to my room, tired, full and very happy.

What a place!

I have decided that I love Thailand. I sort of thought I would given my love for Thai food, but I love everything else I have encountered about it too.  People are friendly, the weather is hot and humid, but there is also a breeze to mitigate it.  Air conditioning is everywhere.  The streets and sidewalks are spotless.  People have really tried to be helpful.  The architecture is AMAZING. I have visited three different wats and the temples inside them and they are all very beautiful.  Thai's tell me the economy is sagging a bit here, but you would not know it.   The infrastructure here is impressive.  There is no begging, the citizens seem happy and well cared for by their government and their king is loved universally.  He still has real power here and he appears to be doing a superb job.  Proof a monarchy can work.   

On Sunday I decided the look for a spirit house which is an essential item in countries where animism is practiced.  Found in many homes, a spirit house is a place for spirits to live inside a home, especially if you have displaced any.  There are a number of nice young folks (20-25) who work at the hotel and they told me to go out to the weekend market which takes place every Saturday and Sunday.  They were certain I could find what I wanted out there.  Were they ever right!  The market was a vast complex of shops and stalls that literally covered square acres, most of it indoor, but parts also open to the air.  The goods are arranged in areas.  You can find furniture in one area, housewares in another, clothing in still another, etc. and there is a food court, but food is prepared fresh on the spot.  You can have an excellent lunch of Pad Thai for under one dollar (excluding beverages).  Throw in fresh spring rolls for 40 cents and you are good to go.  There are so many interesting foods to try, it is hard to resist (more on that later...)

As it began to get dark, a man walked through the market with two elephants!  One was a baby (like Sam in Portland), maybe 400 pounds.  The other was MUCH larger, maybe closer to 4,000.  They were gentle and people wanted to touch them.  They made various grunting sounds as they came near.  Thailand has an intimate relationship with elephants and they are very much part of the history of this nation, both as work animals and in military campaigns in previous centuries.  My guess is that it was probably not "OK" for these elephants to be there, but the police did not seem to mind and they were very gentle.  For 20 baht you could get a bag of some type of food (it looked a bit like bananas) and the elephants would walk up to you and take the food.  OK-I had to try it.  They came over and were very enthusiastic!  Both trunks were coming at me and I was giving them food as fast as they could take it and put it in their mouths!  Soon I could not keep up.  Two trunks were searching my face and shoulders.  The big elephant grabbed my camera and yanked the strap, then let go. I was laughing as they ran their trunks over me.  One grabbed the plastic bag with the food, took the food out and handed me the bag thank you.  It was charming. Stinky, but charming.

Later that evening, I was able to attend a Buddhist service with one of the men who works here and the temple of the sun is the temple he usually attends.  We walked the short distance and discussed Thailand's version of Buddhism.  Thai's practice Theravidic Buddhism which is based on a Sanskrit text called the Theraveda.  This is also combined with elements inherited from Hinduism so that privately many Thai's also have images of Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and especially Ganesh in their homes.  This creates a rich blend of the two religions with a does of animism thrown in for good measure.  Hindu's also accept Buddha, but interpret him as the 9th incarnation of Brahma and the two faiths share many elements.  Adherents of Buddhism often worship at home as Hindus also do, but unlike Hindu's, Buddhists can attend prayer "services" which take place in the evening (around 7pm here) where they can chant the sacred Sankrit texts together under the leadership of monks.  

The temple itself is a marvel with one of the largest "sitting" Buddhas in the city. It is a popular temple and it was full.  I was able to sit outside the inner temple with Tong on a large granite platform.  Many people were outside with us.  We all took our shoes off.  The chanting rarely stopped, when just a few words were spoken and then the chanting resumed.  The smell of incense and flowers filled the air.  The incense represents the prayers ascending to Buddha, the flowers symbolize the purity of the monks and as you listen, a rhythm starts to emerge in the text as it is sung.   

On our way back I noticed a food place absolutely brimming with young Thais.  Tong told me it was a "toast bar".  You go in, get in line and order toast.  You can get it two ways; toasted toast as an intact slice, or steamed toast cut up in cubes for dunking!  There were eighteen different sauces you can have on the toasted toast, or in a cup for the steamed variety ranging from butter and sugar to coconut, orange and even peanut butter!  To go along, you can tea of some sort, iced tea, sweet tea and even bubble tea. Custards and puddings are also available!  It was a new experience to step up to the bar and order some toast which was puffy and delicious with some coconut custard!  I washed it down with icy green tea and I was good to go!

Bangkok!

After a day of delays I am finally here in Bangkok!  I must say that I am totally thrilled to be here and I love it!  This city of some sixteen million is one of the world's great cultural experiences.  It is clean, friendly and beautiful.  It is easy to get around and my impression is that there is sufficient infrastructure here to support the population.  My hotel, the Old Bangkok Inn is a delight. I can see why it is recommended!  As a "boutique hotel", only has eight rooms and each one is centered around a color theme.  I am currently staying in the "rice room" which has muted beige tones, silk covered beds, Thai furniture and a warm, cozy feel.  I arrived early in the morning here and the proprietor let me sleep in their deluxe room (The Rose Room) until my room was prepared.  It is a beautiful guest suite, complete with private, open air hot tub!

After a short nap, I went out to get my bearings.  The sultry air gives way to out and out tropical heat when the clouds clear.  I was wearing long pants to be allowed into some of the more sacred places (long pants required) and I was feeling the heat.  There are a dizzying number of spires all through the city, but nowhere more so it seems than around the Grand Palace.  The palace was closed when I arrived (it closes at 3:30), so I went "next door" to Wat Pho (A "wat" is a temple), and one of the MUST SEE items on my list.  The Giant Buddah.

Wat Pho was founded in the 16th century, but the present site really dates from the 1781 when it was completely rebuilt. It is filled with dozens of buildings and spires (stupas) in the several sanctuaries (think courtyards) within the complex. Some of the sanctuaries are guarded by giants that were transported from China and carved out of solid granite, others feature small gardens with sculptures of various sizes and a whimsical nature.  This wat also has one of the largest collection of Buddah figures to be found anywhere.  Most are covered in gold.  This wat also has a long standing association with the healing arts, including the teaching of traditional Thai medicine and massage.  Still, the highlight of this temple is the image of the giant reclining Buddah.   At over 100 feet long and over 40 feet high, this image of the supine Buddah as he passes into nirvana is indeed one of the sights to see here.  The image is modeled out of plaster over a brick core and covered entirely in gold leaf.   I was in a sort of hushed awe (so was everyone else) I took off my shoes, entered and walked entirely around this colossal figure.

I left the temple grounds and decided to walk towards the river. I came across the area where there has been a great deal of political unrest in recent weeks.  There was activity there. Thai people take their politics seriously and protest when the perceive their government has made a mistake.  In recent times, that has been unrest due to rival factions supporting the current government, which is in fact democratic but accused of "buying votes" from the very poor through corruption and those who wish for a different form on representative democracy where everyone does not have a vote.  The clashes have been intense lately.  My impression is that the army backs one side and the police back the other side.  That could lead to some interesting skirmishes.  People were making political speeches, there was a small crowd present.  Still, mostly it was the food vendors who were winning.  You could buy delicious street food right there, have a foot massage, and even purchase t-shirts and toys!

I next wandered to the amulet market.  Along this street there are dozens of people selling mall religious trinkets designed to keep in a purse, you home, your pocket, anywhere you would like to be reminded of the help from Buddah.  They are all fairly small, with the tiniest of the at about 2 inches high and piled along the street by the thousands.  The street terminated at an open air market where I wandered among the food sellers.  The food is quick friend right in front of you.  I chose a small piece of pork (no pork in Turkey or India).  The girl serving me chopped it up and put it into a plastic bag with some chopped up, friend garlic.  She also put in a small bag of fresh home made HOT sauce and a bamboo skewer.  It was street lunch for about one dollar.  I also got what I am calling "coke-in-a-bag". Here they take a plastic bag with handles,   put in lots of ice and then pour in an entire bottle of coke.  Next comes a straw and you are ready to go, with a coke hanging from your pinkie!

The evening was one of the other things I had been looking forward to:  Muay Thai kickboxing!  I caught a cab to Lumphini stadium, one of the two homes here to Thai boxing and a national institution.  There are several seat options available, but I decided on the spectator seats at ringside (however, anyone can see that the fun stuff is in the cheap seats where the betting is taking place)!  All in all, there were ten matches scheduled for the evening beginning with kids around 13 to 14 and ending with older boxers.  The seventh bout was for the Thai Bantam weight championship!  All of the fighters were very skilled and it was impressive to watch.  A small band consisting of a shawm, a drum and some small cymbals played whenever the fighting started and throughout the round.  Each match consists of five rounds of three minutes each.  For each round, the band plays a bit faster.  Simultaneously, there are family, friends and supporters for each fighter behind each corner yelling and shouting support for their person in order to sway the judges.  By the end of the fight, the crowd is in a frenzy and the athletes are working very hard to put on good showing.  It was as exciting a thing as I have ever done and a great way to end my first day in this remarkable city!

Mixed Blessings

My final days in India have been a mixed blessing.  As one might expect from words "Monsoon Season", it has rained torrentially with occasional thunder and lightening.  This is not so bad in that at least it is warm rain and coming from Oregon, rain is nothing new.  However, what happens here is that the city's infrastructure cannot keep up with the downpours.  The streets flood, water backs up and traffic becomes a significant issue.  For the last few days then, I have been venturing out to various sights around town as the weather will allow. 

However, I did get invited to conduct in a sort of festival commemorating the life of a Chennai musician named Handel Mandelay who was vital to the Chennai musical scene for many years.  In fact, his contributions were so substantial that he was awarded the title "Sri Padma" for his service to India.  This is like getting a "medal of honor"  it's a big deal.  Musicians from all over Chennai gathered to form a large choir at an old church (St. Andrews) which is referred to as the "Kirk".  It was indeed an honor to be allowed to conduct the choir in Mozart's "Ave Verum".  I felt very warmly received.

The next, Randy took me out to meet his mentor Jayrosh and his wife Joyce.  A remarkable man, Jayrosh is a Dalit (an untouchable) who has overcome his caste to achieve wonderful things.  He himself was mentored as a child and given and education.  He rose through the many layers of society and the academic world, served as head master for a school and retired after serving in the administration of the CSI (church of South India).  In his seventies, he speaks with great passion and conviction and is an inspiring man to meet.  Additionally, though they do not have children of their own, Jayrosh and Joyce have, in turn, taken in some twenty kids who have gone on to become doctors, teachers and businessmen and women.   The believe in the value of education and are passing on the blessings given to them.  Their last son is just finishing his MBA. What a treat to talk to them and visit them in their home! 

My last stop in Chennai was at the Temple Mount; the site where St. Thomas was actually martyred.  There is a small chapel there as well as a school and religious community.  The top of the mount also offers an impressive view of the sprawling city of Chennai and slightly cooler temperatures!  It was great to spend a few moments there to gain some orientation to the area.

My flight to Bangkok was supposed to take place that night.  It did, but I was not on it.  The story is quite long, but suffice it to say that because the first leg of my flight from Channai to Mumbai (Bombay) was delayed, I did not make the flight to Bangkok.  The net result was that I ended up spending a day in Mumbai on the nickle of Jet Airways. I arrived at the hotel at 4am and fell asleep watching a channel on TV which was like local cable of sadu's (priests) in some temple making offering...live.  When I awoke at noon, I was in a nice hotel and it was a warm, sunny day, so I decided to tour the city.  Taking a cab around  I visited various municipal sights, the Arabian Sea and the Mumbai home of Ghandi with its accompanying museum.  I also visited an area which is an enormous outdoor laundry run entirely by Hindu men who wash the clothes for some of the twenty million residents of the gigantic city!

Still, undoubtedly the highlight of the day was to visit the temple of Ganesh.  In the pantheon of Hindu gods, this one is my favorite.  The elephant headed deity is the god of prosperity and good fortune and one of his tusks is broken off for him to use as a pen to write with.  He was on the dashboard of the car I was in and the driver Kumal said he would take me to the temple.

As we approached, Kumal had me take off my shoes and socks.  He dropped me at the corner and said, "walk down this street.  No camera, just go in and return in 15 minutes".  I stepped out on the hit concrete and padded my way down towards the temple.  About half way down, a holy man dressed in orange with a long white beard and painted forehead approached me smiling and wrapped some brightly colored jute around my wrist.  He tied it off, smiled at me and sent me on my way, without asking for anything.  I felt happy about this and continued to the temple which had a very strict security system to protect it against terrorism.

I entered the temple complex and there were vendors selling various forms of offerings (poojah) with most of them selling moda (a type of sweet made from sugar and grains with some nuts and coloring added) or Jasmine flowers, the scent of which made the air heavy and wonderful.   I then entered the temple proper and saw a large tabernacle with an alter and a small and elaborate Ganesh in the center.   A crowd was around the altar and two sadu (priests) were taking the offerings and giving them to Ganesh and then returning them.  Several rows up were a gallery of spectators watching the whole thing and TV cameras!  This is what I was watching on TV last night!  I was motioned by a young monitor in a uniform to approach.  Not sure of what to do (I did not have any poojah).  I made an offering and dropped it in the slot on the marble altar.  The sadu approached and touched my forehead putting a bright orange spot in the center.  He then motioned for me to put my forehead on the altar (which I did).  When i came up, he smiled and wrapped a beautiful orange scarf around my neck, welcoming me and thanking me for coming!  He then gave me some muda (candy) to eat.  It was delicious, but I saved one.

I exited the temple area, smiling and feeling great.  The young monitor came up to me and smiled.  He said, "you are from America"?  I said, "yes", and he said, "I need a job"...."a job?"  I said.  "Yes" he said, "help me get a job".   Unsure of how to react to this, all I could do was smile and tell him I would pray for him.  In spite of the job request (which was odd) I felt great.  I smiled as I strolled down the street, blissfully oblivious to the many people asking me for money.  Other people actually motioned the beggars off.  It was as if they were saying "give this guy a break, he's been to the temple, let him enjoy it".  And I did.    

Conducting a choir in India!

Today started off with me making plans to return to my temple searches.  Instead, I received a phone call from Randy to come over and visit with some friends who were at his place from the US!  I went there to be introduced to Randy's cousin Carol and her friends Jane and Amy who are all from Oregon! (Estacada and Sandy to be exact).  They were accompanied by another friend from Seattle (Teri) and they were all great fun to be with.  They had been traveling in India and Nepal for the past several weeks and had a great many interesting stories to tell.  It was fun to be with them.  In spite of the rain that has set in (it IS the rainy season after all...) we were undaunted and set out for the Theosophical Society grounds.  Chennai is now the world headquarters for the Society which was founded in 1875 in New York as a means to study mediumistic phenomena.  Later, its mission was expanded to include philosophy, the brotherhood of mankind, comparative religions (especially eastern ones) and our relationship to nature. 

The grounds in Chennai feature both Hindu and Buddhist temples as well as a large library and  native plantings.  It also has a single Banyan tree that is said to cover an area as large as a football field! (It did by the way).  There were also butterflies, birds of all types (including parrots) and many species of flowers.  In the wet climate however, there were also mosquitoes and we were being eaten alive!  So we hopped in the cars and went a bit further to the free animal clinic where veterinarians treat animals of all types for free, only charging the owners for medicine.  India has many animals as pets and also millions of feral dogs and cats which roam the streets.  Any animal (including cattle, sheep, goats, and everything else) is lovingly cared for here, feral or not.  Quite a noble mission.  

After that, we went to a fabric store where the ladies tried on various types of garments.  Randy also tried on (and purchased) a long shirt (which comes to the knees).  The shop had fabrics of every conceivable color and it is small wonder that the world over has always come to the east for cloth of various types.  It was simply fun to be in there and I enjoyed the fashion show.  The fabric store was followed by coffee/dinner at a fabulous hotel were the ladies were staying, the Taj Connemara, where we enjoyed some food and conversation in the lap of luxury.  I bid the party farewell as Jane, Amy and Teri were heading back to the US that evening.  I was being picked up by a driver and taken to a rehearsal of the Chennai Choral Association!

I was met at the venue by Augustine Paul, a choral director and music teacher who is the current conductor.  He is a kind and gracious man and I enjoyed meeting the group members and listening to them work through their repertoire.  They were starting the rehearsal with their contemporary group of songs which included selections by Duke Ellington, Elton John and Andrew Lloyd Webber and it was their first rehearsal with the band that was accompanying them.  It was fun to watch them work through the repertoire and I have no doubt they will be ready when by the time of their concert in a few weeks!  The closed the set with Bohemian Rhapsody!  I loved it!

After the break, they worked on more traditional western choral music.  This is rare for an eastern group to do and Augustine has excellent taste.  They worked on pieces by Mendelssohn, Hubert Parry, Haydn, Mozart and Rutter.  They will also do some Brahms "Neue Liebeslieder Waltes" on their concert with dancers!  I was introduced and gracious accepted by the members as we worked on some selections by William Byrd.  The singers have lovely voices and I enjoyed working with them on repertoire that I love.   After the rehearsal, I had the pleasure of meeting the singers and talking with them.  They are delightful and gracious people!

Augustine informed me that my ride home was leaving, so I got in the car with four young ladies from the choir who were an absolute hoot to be with.  The car was driven by Tanvi who was a soloist that evening and who has done a great deal of voice work for the film industry in Chennai. She made sure I had my seat belt on and I am glad.  I learned that Chennai alone averages five traffic deaths per DAY!  I believe it.    Tanvi had been to America and we had a chance to compare our various musical experiences when the subject turned to cinemusic or film music.  The popular music in India is the music associated with the film industry.  It is ephemeral and does not last.  The latest film is the latest fad.  People line up by the THOUSANDS to see the latest film which always includes roughly seven song and dance numbers (which , in turn become the latest hits).  I learned that in addition to Bollywood (which is the name assigned to films from the north of India, there is Kollywood (films from the south).  Movies are sometimes in Tamil (south) or Hindu (north) and there are literally HUNDREDS of the films being released each year.   The good ones stick.  People idolize the stars.  Kids cut out their images and paste them in textbooks.  People also worship them like Hindu idols making poojah for them (using coconuts, etc.)  I think it is safe to say that some things are the same between east and west and adoration of stars (even though we all admit it is silly) seems to be healthy and alive in both countries!  They have provided me with a list of films to see if you are interested!

Visiting a Temple

I am learning a great deal about worship and societal structures in India.  There are many levels to things here (as you might expect) not only in worship, but in society as well.  In spite of a real effort by the government to cast off the caste system, it basically still exists and there is evidence of it everywhere.  There are  four basic castes with one extra sort of outside group.  The castes to a certain extent determine your social group, your profession and sometimes you even your diet.  These groups are the underpinnings of social structure in India.  Living a righteous life  and fulfilling your dharma (moral code of behaviour) raises your chance of being born into a higher caste in a later life and this raising your social standing.  At the top are the Brahmins (who are usually teachers and priests, next are the Kshatriya (the warriors), then the Vaishya (merchants) and finally the Shudra (the laborers).  There is one social group below these called the Dalits (also known as the untouchables) who  hold menail jobs such as street sweepers and latrine cleaners.  Some of the people born into this caste turn to Buddhism as it does not rely on societal hierarchies and thereby improve their circumstance.  The government also reserves a certain percentage of jobs for the Dalits to try to spread things aroung more equitably, however this sometimes has led to criticism from the upper castes that people without adequate qualifications are being allowed into jobs over better qualified applicants in order to meet government quotas.

There are several temples within the Chennai city limits and many of them are quite old.  I decided to visit one in Mylapore (which translates to "Peacock").  I took a tuk-tuk to the Kapaleeshwarar Temple and was immediately overwhelmed by the immense gate at the entrance.  Standing some 60-70 feet high, it is adorned with over 2,800 individual figures, all of which are richly painted.  The temple dates from 700AD and perhaps the oldest religious structure in Chennai.  In ancient days, it would have been obvious for quite a distance and it is quite overwhelming up close.   

As I approached, I was being motioned at by several people to remove my shoes.  You can either throw them in a pile and take your chances, or you can give them to a man who will keep them for you for 10 rupees (about 20 cents).  When I entered, the temple stone floor was hot from the sun and it burned my feet.  I moved in (kind of quickly) and a man rubbed white powder on my forehead.  I learned the powder was ash.  Each time you enter, you are reminded that we all come from ash and to ash we will return.  Like in Lent.  The temple is set out in a square which is the most holy and perfect shape in the Hindu cosmology.   There are many small temples inside the big one.  Not being a Hindu, I was not allowed into these, but could view them from the outside.  Each of these small temples is dedicated to a particular god and there are several at temple sites.  It has been estimated that there are over 330 MILLION different manifestations of gods in the Hindu pantheon of deities.  All are a manifestation (male or female) of the big THREE Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (the sustainer) and Shiva (the destroyer).  All three are part of the one central god Brahma who is really manifest in everything.  Brahma is in meditation.  Always.  After creating the universe, he meditates.  

Those adhering to Hinduism can enter the smaller temple.  These are covered and there is a central deity inside, and low fire, candles and incense.  Inside is a sadu (priest) who takes offerings (Puja or poojah) of fruits and flowers (jasmine and lotus blossoms) from the faithful and places them before the altar.  The sadu then invokes the god to answer the prayers of the faithful.  Hinduism is open to anyone and does not preach or evangelize.  It is ancient, older than the other world religions I am studying.  I takes its teaching from the ancient (3,000BCE) Vedic hymns and texts written in Sanskrit.  Much of the music surrounding worship here is centered on the chanting of these texts, although there are also spiritual songs that are sacred, but not from the Vedic texts.  A different tonal system is also used in India and it is safe to say that music is not only central to Hinduism, it is life blood of the prayers.

As I made my way around the grounds, I observed a large banquet hall.  Inside were dozens of people who were eating off of banana leaves.  They were being fed by the temple monks as they were poor and homeless.  The temple was doing the work for the poor and needy and there are many such people here, especially in the lower castes.  In another part of the temple, a young couple was getting married in an open air pavillion.  We were invited to watch and even photograph them as they smiled, draped in Jasmine flowers.  Meanwhile, other families were strolling the grounds, talking with friends or relatives, or playing with their children.  While it was generally hushed within the grounds, the atmosphere was relaxed and casual except in the innermost temples.  People were invited to make a donation if they wanted to as it takes a great deal of effort to maintain the temple.  There are a total of over 10,000 painted figures in the temple and they are painted every 10 years by a crew of 300 people.  It's a huge job.

Outside the temple are vendors who specialize in various types of articles related to the temple.  Some sell poojah (offering items) such as flowers, fruit (coconuts are a regular item because of the pure, white inside when you crack them open.  Outside the temple people were throwing them on the ground all over to break them apart.  Other vendors sell likenesses of the various gods, incense, bracelets, and any variety of things designed to make poojah.  You can stroll the streets and make your choice.  There are also several religious article "supermarkets" outside the temple.  Here you can find anything you need for your home.  One floor is devoted to incense and saree's.  One floor is for religious statues and figurines.  Another is for recordings and the top floor is for books.  I roamed each floor, fascinated by the choices.  I saw books about Christian cosmology, Islamic works and many Hindu books.  I enjoyed browsing the children's section.  My favorite title was "Vishnu to the rescue!"

Rich Experiences

Everywhere I turn here there are new and exciting things and I am becoming more bold in my willingness to embrace them.  My first step was to try a tuk-tuk: the little three wheeled taxis that I have described as running on a lawnmower engine.  The drivers are barefoot and let the engines die at each intersection (thank goodness) and then start them each time they want to go by pulling up on a long lever next to them on the floor.  They sound like a go-kart and move in and out of traffic effortlessly.  Riding in one is like being in Disneyland with the colors, sounds and lights whizzing by and the air blowing your hair back.  It's crazy.  I took one of these contraptions back to Randy's  to meet with his friend Augustine Paul.  I was going to teach some voice lessons and was anxious to meet the students.  However, when I got to Randy's I was in for a big surprise....

There was a huge parade going on out in front of his place on Santhome High Road.  Literally THOUSANDS of people were marching and riding on vehicles.  They were shouting, dancing, playing drums and singing.  It reminded me of what carnival must be like in Brazil.  Everyone was wearing or waiving a three colored flag that looked to be red, black and yellow with a picture of a hand holding a torch in the center.  Others were waiving posters of a well dressed Indian man giving the "thumbs up" sign.  I thought it might be some sort of evangelical festival like Luis Palau or Billy Graham.  As it turns out (and I did not know at the time) it was a political rally for this man who is actually a cinema star here in India who is running for office! (sound familiar?)  The crowd was joyous, but also in a frenzy.  They saw my camera and wanted me to take pictures, so I obliged them.  I got some interesting results.  

I ducked again inside the enclosure surrounding St. Thomas' basilica.  It was quiet inside once I got past the military guards who were protecting the entrance.   A mass was taking place and the community was marching in procession around the building.  It was beautiful and the lights of the cathedral were reflected in the fresh rain puddles around the building.  I enjoyed the music and walked around the grounds which provided some respite from the crazy crowds outside.  I took photos and I listened.  What a strange mixture of sights and sounds. 

 

After mass ended,   I decided to brave the crowds and wandered through the streets filled with parked cars.  People simply gave up for the evening and left their vehicles there.  The alleys were packed and the food stalls were open.  It was Saturday night and people were out and about.  I walked past beggars and well dressed couples, people picking through rags and paper piles and those going out to dinner.  The smells of cooking food, propane stoves, fresh tuberose, wet garbage and incense filled the air and it was an overwhelming feast for the senses.  I finally made my way through the crowd to a tuk-tuk driver who did not look too happy about trying to work his way through the crowds.  A sister from the cathedral came up and asked where I wanted to go.  She smiled at me.  She told him to take me.  He wasn't going to mess with her....he took me.  He spoke no English, but he had a horn like you would find on a bike with a squeaky ball on the end, only this was a BIG one.  It made a great sound and was quite distinctive when compared to the more normal "adult" sounding horns around us.  I felt like I was in a clown car and laughed the whole way home.